Review: WhistlePig Single Malt 25 Years Old The Badonkadonk

Last year, WhistlePig made headlines with the launch of a 21 year old single malt sourced from Canada, arguably the oldest single malt whiskey that the Americas has ever seen produced. The Beholden wasn’t my favorite WhistlePig product, and in preparation for this review I cracked it open for the first time in months to see if there was something I missed the first time around. My thoughts remained exactly the same: This is to be sure a fancy single malt but one that just doesn’t have much that is all that special about it, an exploration of over-sweet maple, overripe fruit, and a bold sugary quality that evokes a big glass of sun tea.

With the Badönkådonk — yes, that’s the name — WhistlePig is mixing up the formula a bit, pushing the (Canadian-sourced) whisky’s age from 21 up to 25 years old, and finishing not in its own rye whiskey barrels (boring!) but rather in Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon casks. The Silver Oak name is an earned one: In 2015 it became the first American winery to own its own cooperage.

WhistlePig sent us the full deal to try out — complete with fancy wooden case and ample badonk — so it’s off to the races we go.

I’m pleased to report that at a mere quarter-century old, this whiskey does at least perk itself up a bit over the more traditional and over-sweetened 21 year old. The nose is the outlier here, kicking off with dense mushroom notes, a well-roasted granary character, and various trappings of the earth. While it’s a stark contrast to the immediately sugary 21 year old Beholden, the whiskey takes its time to wake up, meandering its way to a place where it shows off elements of dried flowers and, later, some camphor.

The palate feels more like a well-aged Scotch than either the nose would suggest — or The Beholden was able to achieve. Warming malts, a lacing of honey, and ample oak are all well-integrated and not at all overwhelming. The heavy earthiness evident on the nose is largely absent here, save for some touches of anise and a tannic, leathery note late in the game — perhaps the best indication of the cabernet sauvignon barrel. The finish has some late-game sweetness on offer, evoking pecan pralines, graham crackers, and some lingering coconut notes. This is a bit fleeting, however, as the wine-driven tannins rush back in to give the conclusion a gritty, lightly bitter character.

At $2000 a bottle, you know you’re getting into a world where reality can’t possibly meet expectations, though WhistlePig does its best by pairing an oddball base spirit with an unexpected finish. Ultimately, this will probably sit on the shelf, used primarily as a novelty pour for guests… but I’m not going to pour it down the drain or anything.

91 proof. Reviewed: Barrel #3.

B+ / $2000 / whistlepigwhiskey.com 

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