Review: 2022 J. Lohr Pinot Noir – Fog’s Reach and Falcon’s Perch
It’s been a few years since we last encountered J. Lohr in these pages, but we’re finally back with a pair of pinot noirs from the winery’s Monterey County operations. Let’s pour a few glasses.
2022 J. Lohr Fog’s Reach Pinot Noir Arroyo Seco – Not “Fog’s Ranch,” as I first read the cursive label. Big, big fruit here — cocktail cherries, sweet tea, and fresh cola notes dominate, while pinches of brown sugar offer a more undulating sweetness. The fruit-powered impact offers a bit of an overripe quality, veering into strawberry jam territory as the wine continues to evolve in the glass, throwing off a few light floral notes, though not much. Ample vanilla emerges on an ultimately silky, almost creamy back-end. Still, it’s in need of some acidity, as it’s a bit blown-out for pinot noir even by modern California standards. B / $35
2022 J. Lohr Falcon’s Perch Pinot Noir Monterey County – Also rather sweet and overtly fruity at the start, Falcon’s Perch settles down with time in glass to reveal a more nuanced palate of tea leaf and cherry, though it comes across as rather darker and a bit chocolatey as it develops in the glass. More notes of cola here and an enduring vein of cinnamon offer an autumnal quality to the wine. While the wine feels a bit overripe, it’s a solid value that pairs well with spicier fare. B+ / $17
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