Bar Review: Junebug, New Orleans

Spoiler: This may be the first time I’ve done a bar-restaurant review where I didn’t order any of the main dishes on the menu. Part of that is because a handful of small plates at Junebug will stuff you to the gills. The other part: Those small plates are the focus, with 17 on the menu, compared to just 5 big ones.

Situated in the New Orleans Warehouse District, Junebug is housed in what used to be a recording studio. The spacious interior plays up that connection, not just with the decor, but by playing vinyl records exclusively during service, all curated based on the season, mood, or specific day. (A recent playlist celebrated Prince’s birthday.) That also works its way into Junebug’s cocktail menu, with each drink available as an A-side (full strength), B-side (lighter abv), and “sample” (shot size) versions. Note that the versions don’t simply, say, sub sake for vodka to lower the alcohol level. In many cases they are wildly different experiences — and we tasted 5 of the offerings during our recent visit during Tales of the Cocktail.

Another spoiler: These drinks (all $16) are pretty wild. Sure, Junebug will make you a Martini or a Sazerac (both $15) if you want them, but you didn’t come all this way for something you can whip up at home, did you? I might suggest beginning with the Werewolves of London, an A-side offering of Cognac, Calvados, quince liqueur, Cynar, and salted celery shrub. It is just as wild as that ingredient list suggests, and no, the Cynar is not understated at all. After an up-front rush of brandy fades, a big herbal-menthol character becomes dominant. The addition of the shrub makes things even wilder — yet more than a little bizarre.

Dancin’ & Prancin’ (B-side) was recommended as a spin on a Hugo spritz, using Chamberyzette, Massenez Garden Party Basil liqueur, and sparkling sake to create a wildly refreshing drink that delights with its powerful strawberry flavor balanced by gentle, refreshing greenery. With the booziness dialed back, it’s a perfect cocktail for brunch (which is served here on Sundays only).

For an even more delightful concoction, though, you’ll have to flip to the third page of Junebug’s cocktail menu, and order it’s Frozen Ramos Gin Fizz, which is made with Hayman’s gin, lemon, lime, soft serve, orange flower water, and soda. Why hasn’t this been done more often? I can’t think of a better dessert drink I’ve had in recent years.

As for the food, we ordered Junebug’s “play the samples” combo, which lets you pick any 5 of the 17 small plates and which was far more food than 2 of us could come close to finishing. (We also ordered all 3 of Junebug’s snacks — perhaps a mistake — which included big bowls of smoked olives, crab fat popcorn, and fried chicken skins that today were basically enormous chicken nuggets, our server explained, because the wrong chicken had been delivered. Bonus nuggs!)

Of the dishes tasted, the crispy-juicy fried oysters were my easy favorite, and you could have tricked me into believing the surprisingly savory carrot ravioli was actually made with mushrooms. Swedish meatballs on fluffy whipped potatoes passed the muster of my Swedish wife and dining partner, too — and only reinforced the fact that a “small plate” means something entirely different in the state of Louisiana.

Perhaps my favorite dish, however, were the lemon curd ricotta doughnuts served for dessert. Extremely light and fluffy, they paired perfectly with both the lemon curd sauce — and that frozen Ramos gin fizz.

Arrive hungry, enjoy the music, and don’t sweat the bill at the end.

744 Camp St, New Orleans, LA 70130
junebugnola.com

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