Review: 2023 The Prisoner Grail Stags Leap District

The Prisoner got its start by Dave Phinney in 2000 as a fairly simple red blend, but somehow the brand promptly exploded in popularity, becoming both a cult and mainstream favorite while adding all manner of expressions as well as spin-off labels, many of which we’ve covered.

Now, under the eye of winemaker Todd Ricard, the brand is reaching higher than ever with The Prisoner Grail, a cab-heavy blend that aims for its highest price point at $200 a bottle. The 2023 bottling is a blend of 72% cabernet sauvignon, 20% syrah, and 8% cabernet franc, crafted from three blocks from the prized Wappo Hill Vineyard in the Napa Valley. Aging was undertaken for 18 months, 60% in new French oak.

While I will complain that the wax seal is one of the most difficult I’ve ever encountered to remove, I’ll move on quickly to dig into the wine, which stands as one of the finest (almost) cabernets you’ll likely find on the market today.

The wine explodes out of the gate with a rush of currants and blackberry, along with some brighter, sweeter blueberry notes. The wine is not shy about its density — at 15.5% abv it approaches dessert wine booziness — but it keeps overt sweetness in check thanks its silky tannins and gentle notes of graphite, tobacco, and a pinch of white pepper. Layers of chocolate unfold from there, again not overly sugary, with vanilla and baking spice notes building on the finish. The fade-out sees plenty of lingering berry fruit, touched with some sweeter tobacco elements and lingering licorice notes.

Powerful stuff.

A / $200

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