Review: Conniption Gin, Complete Lineup
The founders of Conniption Gin, Melissa and Lee Katrincic, have been at the forefront of America’s gin renaissance over the last decade. They were reportedly the first gin distillery to employ cold vacuum distillation, a process which allows gins to incorporate more delicate botanicals that would otherwise be compromised by the heat of traditional vapor infusion. In 2021, they even co-founded the U.S. Gin Association, an advocacy and education organization for the country’s many smaller-scale gin producers.
While most craft distillers make a range of spirits, their devotion to gin has been unwavering. Since opening the doors of their Durham Distillery in Durham, North Carolina in 2015, the Katrincics have only ever made gin with a portfolio that currently includes four different, modern expressions of this classic spirit. Our thoughts on each follow.
Conniption American Dry Gin Review
Produced from a base of grain neutral spirit with vapor-infused juniper, coriander, cardamom, angelica root, and orange and cold vacuum-distilled cucumber and honeysuckle flower. The nose is big and fragrant with that diversity of botanicals on full display, especially the vacuum-distilled cucumber and honeysuckle. It’s green and crisp with top notes of fresh sliced cucumber, ripe melon, and damp pine branches. Undertones of dusty baking spice and pulpy citrus emerge as it opens. The palate is clean and soft, delivering the same botanicals in the aroma with a slight variation. Notes of juniper berry are resinous and sweet while the cucumber is a bit riper yet still crisp and refreshing. A gentle cardamom spice compliments the warming, round mouthfeel. The finish is fresh and generous with licorice and orange oil. 88 proof. A- / $33 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
Conniption Navy Strength Gin Review
Produced from a base of grain neutral spirit with vapor-infused juniper, coriander, cardamom, caraway, bay leaf, rosemary, and lemon and cold vacuum-distilled fig. This is a very different aroma than the standard offering and quite compelling. The vacuum-distilled fig adds an undercurrent of earthy sweetness to compliment the more prominent herbal character from the bay leaf and rosemary while a lacing of lemon oil adds welcome brightness. On the palate, it presents like a high-octane aquavit, bold with a citrus-filled sweetness at first that quickly shifts to caraway with accents of fennel, anise, and herbs. It’s a nice balance of earthy and sweet and drinks surprisingly easy for the proof. The finish is long with fading notes of pickling spice and lemon drops. A great cocktail gin but just as enjoyable with a little soda. 114 proof. A / $48 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
Conniption Barrel Aged Series Gin Review
Produced from a base of grain neutral spirit with the same gin bill as the Navy Strength expression and then aged in used High West bourbon barrels for 10 months. The barrel aging has done quite a bit to tamp down all of the herbs and spices in the ginbill, adding a thick layer of vanilla and subtler butterscotch which elevates the citrus and licorice in the aroma. As it opens, a bit of bay leaf and peppery baking spice bloom. The caraway delivers more on the palate, which is round and silky from the cask aging and showcases top notes of dark licorice, pine sap, butterscotch candies, and vanilla taffy. It’s impressively balanced with the vanilla and peppery caraway melding beautifully on the midpalate before a long finish of baked fig, lemon cream pie, and butter mints. One of the better barrel aged gins I’ve ever tasted. 96 proof. A / $50
Conniption Kinship Gin Review
The most unique of the lineup, this gin is something of a mashup of both recipes, colored with butterfly pea flower. Produced from a base of grain neutral spirit with vapor-infused juniper, coriander, cardamom, angelica root, licorice root, and bitter orange and cold vacuum-distilled cucumber, lemon, honeysuckle flower, and orange. Despite having the most extensive ginbill, the aroma is surprisingly subdued. Notes of dry juniper berries, cucumber water, and a little coriander are the extent of the bouquet, even with considerable time to open. The palate is similarly straightforward with a mix of pine sap, licorice, and candied citrus. It’s all a bit oversweet, as well, with a syrupy mouthfeel that doesn’t moderate until the finish when a bit of bitter orange and fennel adds some welcome acidity and spice. For cocktails, especially of the blue variety, it’s a fine enough gin. But it’s my least favorite of the bunch. 92 proof. B+ / $38 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
The post Review: Conniption Gin, Complete Lineup appeared first on Drinkhacker: The Insider’s Guide to Good Drinking.