Review: Hidden Barn Bourbon Finished in French Oak
Master distillers have been the face of numerous American distilleries for quite some time. However, on the world stage, the master blenders and tasters are the stars. Jackie Zykan became a well-known name in the bourbon industry over the past decade. With projects such as The 117 Series and a revamped single barrel program, Zykan made a lasting mark on Old Forester as master taster before leaving to pursue other ventures in 2022. After departing Old Forester, Zykan’s next project would be Hidden Barn Whiskey, made in association with Neeley Family Distillery in Sparta, Kentucky. Zykan and distiller Royce Neeley teamed up to produce a variety of whiskeys under the Hidden Barn branding — though early releases were, at best, describable as divisive.
The newest release from Zykan and Neeley is Hidden Barn Kentucky Straight Bourbon Double Barreled in New Charred French Oak, aged for 7 years. Zykan blended 5 barrels distilled by Neeley Family, which was matured in 53-gallon barrels from Zak Cooperage with char level #3 and a medium toast. The Zak barrels were constructed with staves that seasoned in open air for 24 months. Following initial maturation, the bourbon was transferred to 60-gallon barrels from Alain Fouqet. The virgin finishing casks were constructed of 36-month open-air seasoned Haute Futaie French oak with a medium toast and char#1. Haute Futaie oak comes from dense forests managed by the French government and produce produce very fine and extra tight grain. The bourbon is made from a mashbill of 70% corn, 20% rye, and 10% malted barley, double pot distilled after a 5-day fermentation with wild Appalachian yeast. The spirit comes off the still at 127 proof and enters the barrel at 105 proof.
Jackie Zykan and Royce Neeley put a lot of care and attention into this release, and it’s a much different animal than the early Hidden Barn releases. Did their attention to detail pay off? Let’s find out.
The toasted oak immediately emanates from the glass with a beautiful burnt brown sugar and roasted coffee aroma. Toasted tannins lead, but are quickly followed by vanilla custard and red fruits. The deep fruit nose presents as raspberry and tart cherry.
The toasted French oak provides an assortment of spices on the palate. Cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg open the show, while the midpalate brings a dense molasses and vanilla extract quality. Adding complexity, a touch of pine and barrel char are also expressed. The whiskey has a beautifully chewy and thick mouthfeel: When Booker Noe talked about the “Kentucky chew,” this is what he had in mind.
The finish debuts with burnt caramel and overly ripe banana, combining to make a bananas Foster experience. The toasted French oak adds tannin to the finish with a subtle coffee note, providing a warm finish that is as long as the drive from Paducah to Pikeville.
I’ve previously tasted whiskey from Neeley Family Distillery and Zykan at Old Forester. This was my first experience with the dynamic due under Hidden Barn. I was highly pleased with this bourbon that has been well-crafted and aged for 7 years, and I’m looking forward to future offerings from Hidden Barn.
109.4 proof.
A- / $80 / hiddenbarnwhiskey.com
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