Review: 2021 Kerrville Hills Trebbiano Pepper Jack Vineyards

This Texas High Plains wine is made from trebbiano grapes, which is one of the most widely planted grapes in the world — but which is primarily associated with Italy. Let’s see what the middle of Texas can do with the increasingly global varietal.

What initially starts out as a pleasant, almost innocuous wine soon starts to reveal more exotic and unusual notes, working its way from lemon curd, lime leaf, and gooseberry to notes of honey, orange oil, and ultimately a hint of petrol. It’s this lattermost element that I have no doubt will raise some level of divisiveness, providing some amount of austerity and gravitas while simultaneously hitting the palate as a bit sharp. Fans of old riesling know the paradox here, and I’d say Kerrville Hills is ultimately successful at making the most of a complex flavor profile.

B+ / $32 / kerrvillehillswinery.com

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