Review: NV Riunite Lambrusco and Zero Red Semi-Sparkling
Riunite is one of those names that has existed long enough to become cultural furniture: familiar, faintly nostalgic, and impossible to dismiss, even if it has spent years making the case that “approachable” can also mean “just pour another glass and stop talking.” Building its international ascendancy largely around Lambrusco, it helped turn a once-regional Italian red into something appearing on American tables and other ubiquitous scenarios without requiring lengthy oratory.
That, in fairness, is no small feat. Riunite has always specialized in being easy to like without demanding reverence, a very democratic achievement, or a sly way of getting away with being more effervescent than serious. Whatever the case, it’s a brand that has a miraculous amount of staying power, even if its original Boomer target audience is starting to slowly shuffle off this mortal coil. In keeping with recent trends, they’ve launched a new semi-sparkling red that has zero alcohol, and today we’re trying that alongside its flagship Lambrusco.
NV Riunite Lambrusco – There’s a reason people have spent decades suggesting this be served over ice: it comes on with such unapologetic sweetness that dilution isn’t sacrilege, it is simply good common sense. The fruit doesn’t unfold; it takes over with relentless tenacity, carrying the wine straight through with very little interest in subtlety or restraint. Only at the end do faint floral and herbal notes arrive to counterbalance and prevent it from becoming pure confection. Serve it to elderly relatives needing a kick of nostalgia at the holidays to calm down, or as a mixer in sangria. C- / $10
NV Riunite Zero Red Semi-Sparkling – We’re keeping the familiar fizzy profile going, commonly associated with the brand, but with zero alcohol, giving it a cleaner profile landing with a bit more crispness than its alcohol-filled sibling. Bright and uncomplicated with raspberry and cherry aromas throughout, the fizzy sweetness steers into soft drink territory rather easily and a punch of cranberry towards the finish delivers some tartness. It’s clean, simple, and does the job of people pleasing. It may not sound glamorous, but it is at least honest, which is more than can be said for a great many NA wines trying twice as hard. C / $10
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