A Tour of Rias Baixas Through 3 Wines, 2024 Releases

Ready to get nerdy on Spanish albarino? Rias Baixas is ground zero for the grape, and today we look at the wine from three different angles, specifically three different subregions within Rias Baixas: O Rosal, Soutomaior, and Val do Salnés.

Let’s see what these wines can do.

2022 Terras Gauda O Rosal Rias Baixas – O Rosal is based on a river that forms part of the border with Portugal — coastal, cool, and built on granite bedrock. An almost archetypal expression of albarino, this low-alcohol (12.5%) offering offers a bright mix of lemon, grapefruit, and coconut, ringed gently with notes of vanilla and plenty of salty minerality. Clean florals on the finish pair with a light bite of dried (thought not sweetened) pineapple and a reprise of lemon curd. Exemplary. A / $23

2022 Adegas Galegas Don Pedro de Soutomaior – From the smallest subregion in Rias Baixas, a sandy, hilly area at the head of the Rias de Viga. Slightly sweeter in style, with a doughy, almost chewy quality to the finish. An aggressive pineapple core spars with saline-driven elements, leading to a somewhat haphazard finish that seems both a bit over-acidic and slightly dusty and rustic. B / $18

2019 Paco & Lola Prime Galicia – Made in Val do Salnés, the first, coldest, and wettest subzone of Rías Baixas. This expression showcases albarino at its most balanced and mineral-driven, thanks to the chilly, granite-heavy terroir (similar to O Rosal). Bold saline notes complement a core of melon and pineapple, though it remains boldly acidic well through to the finish. Tops in this tasting, by a smidge. A / $35

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