Review: 2024 Sankt Pauls Pinot Grigio Sudtirol Aldo Adige

Alto Adige pinot grigio (Santa Margherita generally excepted) offers the drinker the opportunity to experience this wine without the expected trappings that have become typical of today’s production. Rather than overtly fruity and vaguely sweet, Sankt Pauls’ expression is layered and quite dry, an exploration of terroir instead of the orchard.

Crisp and mineral-driven on the palate, this wine from Kellerei St. Pauls takes its gentle, turned earth kickoff, touched just so with a spritz of oxidized white wine vinegar which only amplifies the dryness of the wine. More classic pinot grigio notes emerge from there: Melon mixed with lighter pineapple notes, finishing on a spray of white flowers, both fresh and dried. It’s a wine that’s versatile, approachable, and
restrained all at once — a crowd-pleaser with nuance that hits well above its price band.

A- / $29

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