Review: Wines of the Cotes du Rhone, 2026 Releases
The Côtes du Rhône appellation is taking up a curious evangelism. It is urging the faithful and revival tent-curious to entertain a temptation once considered heretical: chill your reds. It’s a campaign christened, with blunt minimalism, “Refresh Your Wine.” I somehow find myself uncharacteristically in agreement with their marketing and public relations agencies of record. As of this writing, it is late September, and the thermometer has apparently not taken a moment to read the calendar. The heat index persists at triple-digit levels more suited to July’s worst intentions, leaving the fire pit unlit and customary deep reds waiting in the wings for more worthy weather. At this point, I am up for any notion providing some new form of relief or enjoyment. So we beat on, with an open mind and wine fridge, to put three Côtes du Rhône bottlings through their paces. I’m thinking of it as a temporary truce between stalwart conviction and calendar.
2023 La Bastide Saint Dominique Côtes du Rhône – 60% Grenache 40% Syrah. This initially pours out quite unsteady but eventually finds its footing, settling nicely into deep and layered waves of raspberry, currant, wet stone, thyme and crushed violet. Medium-bodied with velvet tannins and good acidity supporting a finish of cola, fresh cherry and a faint note of white pepper. Open this while preparing an easy dinner and, unless you are crafting some ambitious gastronomical monstrosity or heating leftovers in the microwave, it should be ready around the same time. B+ / $15
2022 Château Gigognan Bois des Moines Côtes du Rhône – 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. Vibrant aromas of red cherry and raspberry open on the nose, with some bay leaf following as it develops, preventing the whole affair from collapsing into jam. A surprisingly silky body carries the red fruit forward, with cranberry, orange zest and a faint touch of chocolate evident on the finish. Chill it or don’t. Either way, it is quite satisfying. A- / $22
2022 Roche-Andran Cuvee Visan Côtes du Rhône – 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. Plenty of Côtes du Rhône’s trademarks on display, with notes of blackberries, graphite and black pepper dominating throughout. Full-bodied with the fruit adding some acidity, but the spices take over on the lingering finish and never relinquish control. Of the trio, this is the singular instance where the gains from a stay in the refrigerator are minimal. B / $20
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