Review: 2025 Harken Chardonnay California

The ABC (Anything but Chardonnay) movement didn’t really take hold the way some people would have hoped. All of its most boisterous vocal proponents either set off to the great big vineyard in the sky or moved on to putting Merlot or Rosé on blast. But certain Chardonnays are serving as proof of victory, and Harken’s Chardonnay is one of them. Like most eccentric Californians, they are fully committed to the bit of doing one thing well and are wholly unbothered by media trends. Harken simply does Chardonnay and that’s that.

The nose opens with an expected roll call of citrus: orange, lemon, and pear, eventually followed by vanilla from oak aging arriving just a few beats behind. On the palate, pear carries through, joined by roasted nuts and a rich, custardy quality reminiscent of crème brulèe. This isn’t a lean, mineral-driven Chardonnay by any stretch, and it leans fully into a rich sweetness. The finish is long and citrus-forward, with a thin thread of minerality appearing late that provides balance and contrast against the buttery, oak-driven weight of everything that came before.

This is a classic old-school California Chardonnay. The kind people either adore or pretend to have grown out of during social gatherings. It’s also an unquestionably genuine bargain, making it feel less of a guilty pleasure and more like a good call for the bank balance. Crack it open in late October or early November, paired with roasted root vegetables, and let it do what it’s been aiming to do: strut its stuff with pride.

B+ / $16

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