Review: Old Towns of Scotland #01 – Wick
Old Towns of Scotland is a new series of small-batch releases from South African retailer WhiskyBrother, each intended to showcase the character of a particular Scottish whisky-producing region.
The first (and currently only) release comes from Wick in the Highlands and is limited to just 120 bottles. The distillery is undisclosed, although there’s not much mystery for anyone familiar with Wick’s whisky history. This is a small-batch vatting of whiskies aged between 10 and 14 years, matured in ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks and bottled at a punchy 50.5% abv (101 proof).
Old Towns of Scotland #01 – Wick Review
Some whiskies give you a pretty good idea of what’s coming before you even pull the cork, and this is one of them. The label’s busy Wick harbor, a nod to the town’s long history as a port for herring fishing, sets the tone nicely: coastal, rustic, and maritime. And, sure enough, that character comes through in the glass.
The nose is malt-forward and inviting, with biscuit, polished oak and toffee, backed by a touch of lemon zest. There’s also a distinct briny, sea-salt note lurking underneath, enough to bring classic Campbeltown malts to mind. As it sits in the glass, the whisky becomes increasingly expressive, with a little waxy character and a faint hint of dried fruit adding some extra depth. It’s a substantial nose without being particularly heavy.
On the palate, toffee apple leads the way, wrapped in a creamy, surprisingly rich texture. Darker fruit emerges with time, joined by plenty of vanilla and a gentle hit of spice. There’s a nice balance between the sweeter, dessert-like notes and the more savory maritime character, with the higher abv giving everything a little extra weight. It’s certainly not shy, but the alcohol is reasonably well integrated and doesn’t overwhelm the underlying malt character.
The whisky also benefits from a little time in the glass. What initially presents as a fairly straightforward combination of sweetness and coastal character develops into something more layered, particularly as the darker fruit and oak become more pronounced. A few drops of water soften the edges and bring out more of the vanilla and citrus, although I preferred the fuller texture and intensity at full strength.
The finish brings burnt sugar and oak, followed by a pleasant dryness that lingers nicely. There’s a touch of spice here too, along with that persistent salty character, giving the finish more staying power than you might expect from a relatively young whisky.
This is a very good maritime malt that avoids the obvious trap of turning the coastal character into a one-note exercise in salt and oil. There’s plenty of fruit, sweetness, and oak here to keep things interesting, too. At 50.5% alcohol, it has enough muscle to stand up to a splash of water, although I’d happily drink it neat.
For a first release, Old Towns of Scotland #01 makes a pretty compelling case for the series. The undisclosed provenance is fun, but ultimately beside the point: What matters is that there’s an enjoyable, characterful whisky in the bottle. With only 120 bottles available, this is one worth seeking out while you can.
101 proof.
A / $80
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