Review: Wines of Cadre, 2024 Vintage

“Cadre was built on a simple belief that California’s next great story is not Chardonnay or red wines, but fresh, aromatic white wines that reflect our coastal roots.”

That’s a bold statement from a winemaker (John Niven of Cadre) who lives in a state specifically known for chardonnay and cabernet, and here he comes from the San Luis Obispo Coast with an armload of… albarino and gruner veltliner? Ballsy.

Cadre recently sent us a four pack of its recent releases, which we put through their paces. Thoughts follow.

2024 Cadre Sea Queen Albarino – Tropical and vibrant, this fruit-forward wine packs in a pinch of salinity to add a lively mineral character to what otherwise hits with bright pineapple and crisp lemon notes. That steely acidity prevents the wine from blowing out the way your typical pinot grigio can do, leading to a balanced finish that finds room for touches of coconut and lychee. Beautiful. A

2024 Cadre Stone Blossom Sauvignon Blanc – This is a boldly tropical — and surprisingly peachy — expression of sauvignon blanc, sweeter and creamier than most expressions, though it’s quite a delight thanks to its fruity exuberance, culminating in a surprisingly vanilla-heavy finish. A latent punch of green apple ensures the wine stays on target for the varietal and never becomes overly unctuous and sugary, though I have to confess the mix of fresh fruit and sweeter elements make this a wholly iconic porch pounder — in the best possible way. A-

2024 Cadre Beautiful Stranger – A blend of 60% gruner veltliner, 30% sauvignon blanc, 10% albarino. This is a surprising blend that I didn’t expect would work as well as it does, the boldly tropical notes of the sauvignon blanc (and albarino) complemented by the tart acidity of the gruner. Together they make for a cohesive and expressive wine that perks up right away with lemon, lime, and gentle tropical notes, then slowly reveals light-handed touches of marzipan and vanilla cream. While the attack feels deft, the ultimately chewy, rounded body serves to amplify all of the above. A-

2024 Cadre Band of Stones Gruner Veltliner – This doesn’t come across, much at all, like a typical gruner, with a muddy-doughy body that evoked mushroom more than the bright citrus and herbal notes you normally find with the grape. It’s a curious whiff given how delightful and acidic the Beautiful Stranger (60% gruner) tends to be, though it’s fortunate that things open up a bit after the wine gets some air on it. Settle in for the long run and you should find this becoming increasingly approachable. B

each $30

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