Review: Shang Whiskey Dan Ya and East + West Kentucky Blend

It’s not every day we get to sample an entirely new category of spirits. But that’s very much what Shang Whiskey is selling, with two launch offerings built around a whiskey distilled from Chinese baijiu.

The first — Dàn Ya — is redistilled from sauce-aroma (jiàngxiang) baijiu, which is produced from red sorghum. The redistilled spirit is then sent to Kentucky, where it is aged for under a year in American oak. It’s a fusion of Chinese and American production techniques, original enough that Shang is promoting it as a new category unto itself: jiàngxiang whiskey.

Shang’s second expression — the East + West Kentucky Blend — begins with the same jiàngxiang whiskey base. It’s blended with a Kentucky-distilled red sorghum whiskey, then aged in American oak before bottling.

Almost as notable as the production methods are the array of players involved in bringing the new spirits to market. Shang is owned by Maritine Brands, itself a joint venture between True Essence Foods and Guìzhou Guótái Shùzhì Liquor Group. Further partners include Whiskey House of Kentucky (in Elizabethtown) and The Blending House (in Shelbyville).

It’s a unique approach to melding distinct spirits categories and styles. And while many Westerners are still unfamiliar with baijiu, it’s generally considered the world’s largest spirits category, with annual sales almost double that of the global whiskey market. At the outset, Shang seems keen on targeting two separate consumer bases: baijiu-curious Americans, and existing baijiu drinkers searching for an injection of novelty.

Let’s dive in.

Shang Whiskey Dàn Ya Review

The baijiu used for Dàn Ya’s jiàngxiang whiskey begins with red sorghum in the Chìshui River basin. The sorghum base undergoes solid-state fermentation using dàqu, a starter that facilitates both saccharification and fermentation. Production follows a complex series of eight fermentations, separated by seven distillations. The distillate is rested in oxygen permeable clay pots for a minimum of three years. Finally, the baijiu is pot distilled and pressure filtered before shipping to Kentucky, where the resulting jiàngxiang whiskey is aged in American oak for between one month to “just under” a year.

On the nose, dedicated whiskey drinkers will likely encounter something quite new. Early aromas are at once tangy, sour, fruity, floral, and salty, somewhere between overripe tropical fruit and a savory fermented sauce or bean paste. Additional notes include bitter melon, lemongrass, pickled watermelon rind, and unsweetened chocolate. It’s certainly a broad mix, and it takes time to really parse the individual components. Oak develops later on, lending touches of vanilla and light caramel, which (eventually) push the nose into more familiar whiskey territory.

The palate starts with floral simple syrup and a big hit of red peppercorns, the latter dominating for a couple sips. After some acclimation comes loads more fruit, including tart berry compote, passionfruit, lychee, and pomelo. The back palate brings salinity and sweet/savory red bean paste, with lingering pepper. 100 proof.

B+ / $65 (500ml)

Shang Whiskey East + West Kentucky Blend Review

East + West starts with the jiàngxiang whiskey base and marries it with whiskey distilled from 100% red sorghum. That second component is produced at Whiskey House via sweet mash fermentation and grain-on column distillation up to 155 proof. (A Whiskey House representative confirmed the team used a relatively neutral yeast and enzymes similar to a high corn bourbon.) After the two components are blended, they undergo maturation in American oak barrels.

East + West kicks off with a profile far more familiar to whiskey drinkers. The nose begins with toasted oak and fermenting grain, and at first, it’s a little reminiscent of fermenting mash. Baking spice and chocolate are up next, and once again, it’s still firmly in whiskey territory: allspice, clove, and nutmeg meet hot cocoa. Eventually, some of the funky, ripe fruit character from Dàn Ya rolls in, along with a savory, peppery sauce (hoisin comes to mind).

The palate borrows a lot from Dàn Ya, with both pepper and tart fruit dialed back by around half. That allows for more caramel and milk chocolate, along with threads of bright red cherry and honeydew I didn’t pick up on the first expression. Similarly, the saline is toned down, and in its place we’ve got both pickled and candied ginger. The sweeter finish brings golden raisins and black pepper.

For American palates, East + West is less adventurous but more familiar. My guess is that could up the appeal stateside, though it reigns in some of what makes Dàn Ya intricate and fun. 92 proof.

B+ / $46 (500ml)

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