Review: 2022 Terrazas de los Andes Extremo Malbec
There’s this thing that happens when a winemaker decides that their vines, or they, haven’t suffered enough for their art. Some specific and slightly punishing logic takes over, and the next thing you know, someone is planting grapes 1650 meters (5413 feet) above sea level in higher Andean reaches of Mendoza, which is itself already a place most people would consider to be quite far up (for context: I am currently typing on a patio in the Midwest that is 675 feet above sea level). And so goes the mission of Terrazas de los Andes’ Extremo Malbec, which appears to be climbing progressively higher into the troposphere in search of something lower elevations apparently cannot deliver. They’ve been at this for several years now. And they are, by any reasonable measure, very serious about it.
The wine resulting from this commitment, as it happens, is also worth taking very seriously. Which is not always the case with serious wines. Seriousness in winemaking, as in most things, can curdle into a paste of self-importance: performative asceticism where wine becomes less important than the document and credentials it carries. Extremo does not taste like a document.
2022 Terrazas de los Andes Extremo Malbec Review
What this wine does say, goes something along these lines: there is a way to make Malbec that isn’t wholly boisterous, opaque and predictable. Extremo’s idea of Malbec is fresher and finer than that. The El Espinillo vineyard is farmed regeneratively, surrounded by native Andean biodiversity, meaning wild thyme and other mountain herbs end up in the aromatic profile. But after a few swirls in the glass, they become muted, allowing for notes of graphite and red cherry to pull up and provide depth and dimension.
On the palate, the cherry takes the lead and mostly keeps it. However, it doesn’t insist on being the only voice: blackberry and oak show up and integrate themselves without much fuss. The tannins are grippy, and the acidity does the work of keeping everything in alignment. As the finish fades out, the cherry recedes and gives way to tones of vanilla, cinnamon and violet, a reminder that beneath the ambition and altitude, this is still very much a Malbec.
Pulling all of this together, the argument Extremo makes is a coherent one: Malbec doesn’t have to be what Malbec so often is stereotyped to be. That a version of Malbec, much like some of the most elite, critically acclaimed wines from the continent, can prioritize freshness over density and elegance over power. This vintage makes that argument without being annoying about it, something which is harder than it sounds. This wine could easily be a thesis statement for Terrazas, a vehicle for their philosophy dressed up with some flourishes, a few marketing blurbs and a hefty price tag. But in the end, it tastes exactly what you’d expect: a singe parcel of old vines at the top of a high-altitude valley doing something particular and worth the attention of anyone who likes to dig deeper into Malbec’s versatility.
Terrazas de los Andes suggests decanting this wine for about 45 minutes before enjoying. I followed this tenet closely for the first sip, but found that even slightly extending decanting time past the hour mark yields significantly improved elegance. That is, if you’re opening this now. It’s easy to see this being forgotten for a decade, dusted off and still performing very well.
Drink this wine with something special: the best cut of meat available from your butcher, or if your sweet tooth hits, something involving chocolate. Ideally, this also should be opened with people whose company you enjoy, in a room that isn’t too loud. This bottle is worth your time and attention, and it’s gone through quite a bit to be heard and enjoyed.
A / $200
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