Review: Sagrantino Wines of Messina Hof, 2026 Releases

Sagrantino is a grape that genuinely humbles. Not in a pretentious, wine-clown kind of way, but more like the way a long hike in midday July heat humbles: you think you’re prepared, and then somewhere around mile three, there’s an epiphany that in no way do you have business being out there. That’s Sagrantino: dense, tannic and aggressively structured, especially when it’s young. You don’t casually sip it in its youthful stage. It’s more of a negotiation.

It originates in Umbria, specifically the area around Montefalco, a hilltop town that most people outside of Italy have never heard of, except in a Stanley Tucci travel program, and likely (present company included) could not locate on a national map. The grape has been grown there for a long time, longer than most modern wine regions have even existed. Traditionally, it was made both dry and sweet, though the dry version is what most people encounter today. The flavors, of course, skew dark: blackberry, dried plum, bitter chocolate, a kind of leathery, herbal undercurrent that lingers. Young bottles can be almost punishing to sip. But when aging a bottle for five to ten years, something shifts. The tannins integrate and the fruit deepens. It becomes one of those wines you open on a significant occasion and then spend quite a bit of time discussing.

None of that makes it easy to grow or make. It most certainly is not. Sagrantino has a way of punishing carelessness in the vineyard and rushing in the cellar. It wants what it wants and makes zero apologies for taking the time it takes.

Here’s the thing, though: some of those same demanding qualities are exactly what make it interesting that Sagrantino seems to be catching on throughout the southwest. The Hill Country of Texas is not a gentle place to grow wine grapes. The summers are brutal, the rainfall is unreliable, and the margin for error is slim. Varieties that need a lot of hand-holding tend to fall apart. But grapes that evolved in Mediterranean climates? They’ve been doing surprisingly well. The limestone soils help and the heat, oddly enough, helps too, at least for the right varieties. So far, Sagrantino seems to be fitting in that category.

The resulting wines from the region’s Messina Hof are hard to neatly categorize, which is probably a good sign. The Sagrantino character comes through: there’s still quite tannic backbone, still heavy on dark fruit, still with a savory, brooding quality demanding a well-cooked steak as a paring. But Texas puts its fingerprints on it, too. The ripeness and weight are different. And in a wine region still figuring it all out, still trying to adjust to the ever-changing climate, that matters more than people might realize: the willingness to grow something difficult, somewhere new, and see what happens next. That’s one of those bold moves helping Texas live up to its reputation and clichés.

Some things to consider with all wines reviewed below: they need to age for a considerable amount of time, so plan accordingly. Additionally, they require a quite a bit amount of air and rest when poured from the bottle: they are not something you can pour, swirl and enjoy. Allowing for decanting allows the wine to find its footing and really show itself off.

2021 Messina Hof Paulo Sagrantino – A blend of 86% Sagrantino with 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, and it’s apparent from the first pour. On the nose, licorice, cardamom, and cinnamon move in first, with blackberry hanging back and appearing later. On the palate, it’s full-bodied and dark-fruited at heart, with pomegranate and that blackberry note pressing closer over time. Eventually, traces of leather, spice and tobacco leaf provide the sort of depth suggesting Cabernet and ample time in an oak barrel. The tannins come in strong but never run the show, as ample acidity keeps everything squared away and in balance. Then the finish stretches out: long, lingering, and leathery and stacked with an alluring currant note that hangs around as all else fades from view. From standout of depth, complexity and balance this is the best of the bunch. Also, quite likely the best domestic Sagrantino-based blend of 2026. A / $60

2021 Messina Hof Estate Sagrantino – A dense but lovely core of red cherry starts things off. But a big note of bell pepper, almost something you’d expect from certain Chilean Carménère, delivers a major plot twist. Earthy throughout, with a faint trace of smoke meat on the finish. Messina Hof is really putting in the work here, which tracks if you know anything about their history. They’ve been operating out of Bryan close to 50 years now, before Texas wine was remotely on anyone’s radar, and back when saying one made wine in Texas was likely to get a look of puzzled bewilderment. They’ve stuck with it and built something with tangible results. That kind of institutional stubbornness is exactly what it takes to work with a grape like Sagrantino, and really make it shine. A- / $65

2021 Bonnarrigo Family Wines Heritage Reserve – This sibling label to Messina Hof’s flagship stays firmly rooted in the old-world Italian lane: 50% Sagrantino, 30% Sangiovese, and 20% Primitivo. The blend does a lot of useful moderation, as Sagrantino’s natural intensity lands with some control rather than brute force. It’s incredibly well-structured, with firm tannins and a savory, dark-fruit core: more black cherry and plum shadow than red licorice rope. There’s enough Sangiovese to keep it from feeling dense, while the Primitivo rounds out the middle juicier depth and a kick of spice. The good news is that it’s ready to open now. The better news: if you prefer patience, it should settle further over the next few years, with the edges smoothing into a more seamless finish. Either way, lovely and elegant all around. A- / $40

2021 Messina Hof Reserva High Plain Sagrantino – As expected, a furnace blast of dark fruit and cocoa rises from the glass, and after a bit of air, things simmer down and roasted plum peeks through. However, it’s all seriousness from start to finish, with plenty of tannins giving the whole thing structure and allowing the black cherry and blackberry to shine on the palate. It’s dense and assertive, and makes no apologies for what it is. However, paired with the right meal and a long evening in, it can really become quite the experience. B+ / $40

2023 Bonnarrigo Family Wines Sparkling Sagrantino Rosé – And now for a most welcome alternate take after all of the rich denseness in the portfolio. The bubbles show up and smooth over the rigid and serious intensity of the grape, allowing notes of red plum and berry to loosen up a bit. Faint traces of cranberry and black tea appear on the palate, all too brief, but the clean, dry finish resets the palate for the next sip. Or, if you are so inclined, the next glass. It manages to be remarkably refreshing and doesn’t fall into the poolside sipper category, but it’s easily worthy of a spot at the next dinner patio party with special guests. A nice showcase on Sagrantino’s versatility. A- / $40

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