Review: Talisker Magma 47 Years Old

The use of barrels toasted with hot volcanic rocks are, believe it or not, not a new idea, as Dewar’s dropped a magma-toasted barrel bottling last year. That’s not going to dull our enthusiasm for this release from Talisker, though, which at 47 years of age is the oldest distillery release to date and one of its rarest, with just 622 bottles produced (105 in the U.S.).

The full production details look like this:

The whisky was first matured in refill American oak hogsheads before being finished for four months in new American oak casks toasted by volcanic rocks from the Isle of Skye. Replacing the traditional open-flame method, the rocks are heated before the barrels rotate around them, toasting the interior without direct contact with the staves. Steaming during the process keeps the cask hydrated and maintains a steady, controlled temperature.

Does the use of hot rocks versus, say, infrared heat or a fancy hair dryer make a difference? The whole “magma” thing may be a bit of a gimmick, but let’s see how well the results speak for themselves.

Talisker Magma 47 Years Old Review

There’s really nothing quite like old Talisker, and this bottling stands as a showcase of the coastal distillery’s greatest hits. Things start off with a surprising burst of aromatic fruit, with baked apples and pear complemented by a healthy (though never overwhelming) saline-infused smokiness. There’s a ton of sweetness evident, though it all comes across as gentle, layered fruit notes.

The palate flips the order of things — smoke first, then fruit — but otherwise feels like it’s cut from the same cloth. After an initial rush of bonfire smoke fades, the fruit hits fast. Restrained apple and some lemon are backed up by mint and a hint of green tobacco, with a gently salty finish. Perhaps there’s something to this magma idea, which really plumps up the fruitiness on this release.

That said, the whisky smolders on the back end just as it should, culminating in an almost crisp punch of gentle creosote. Gorgeous stuff that’s totally on point. As with many of these well-aged Talisker releases, my small sample vanished far too quickly.

97.6 proof.

A / $5250 (700ml)

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