Review: Maestro Dobel Blanco and Tahona Tequila Blanco

Maestro Dobel continues to innovate, this time by returning to the good old days of artisanal tequila production (and eschewing its trademark cristalino presentation).

Dobel Tahona Tequila Blanco is a 100% organic blanco tequila made with classic techniques: tahona agave pinas crushed on a volcanic stone wheel, masonry oven roasting, fermentation with open-air wild yeast over the course of a week, and double copper pot still distillation. It’s bottled at a quirky 40.5% abv with no additives aside from proofing water.

Pricing is not outrageous, so let’s open our wallets and see what we get. (We’re also putting it up against the standard Maestro Dobel Tequila Blanco as a control. While billed as 100% natural, in-depth production details aren’t provided for it.)

NOM 1122.

Maestro Dobel Tequila Blanco Review

Peppery but bright on the nose, with the essence of fresh agave on full display. A racy current of lime leaf and lemon peel builds with a little time in glass, the tequila layering in some brown sugar sweetness the longer it sits and its pushier vapor notes blow off. All told it’s a clean and iconic expression of blanco, hitting exactly as expected (and desired).

The palate follows right along — clean and lemon-forward, the citrus turning to grapefruit as it develops on the tongue. Definitely light in body, the finish is modest, almost short at times. There’s a lingering pepperiness on the finish, but it comes across as white pepper over black or green — and definitely nothing spicy. Rather, that pinch of pepper complements a gentle sweetness that evokes some of Dobel’s aged expressions — in the best possible way.

If you’re looking for one of the best bases for a margarita you can find, this is it.

80 proof. A- / $40

Maestro Dobel Tahona Tequila Blanco Review

Some of Dobel’s recent expressions have leaned in heavily to punchy herbal notes, and Tahona Blanco may now be the pinnacle of that across its lineup: Bold notes of jalapeno, fresh lime leaves, cut grass, and pulverized green herbs dominate the nose — chased by some heady menthol. In a world of often mild blancos, this one hits hard and right from the start. Wet and vegetal, it’s a real powerhouse of earthy herbaceousness.

The palate hits a bit differently: Lemon and lemongrass, surprisingly tangy and bright. The herb-and-pepper notes don’t take long to return to the forefront, however, and the body soon enough becomes a showcase for all of those green elements that are so prominent on the nose. While some of the pepper blows off from the aromatics with time in glass, it seems to sink deeper into the liquid itself, ultimately enriching it with flavors of ground white pepper, roasted jalapeno, and some hoppy hemp rope notes. The finish finds the citrus notes all but vanishing, hints of Dijon mustard the final touch of the fadeout.

Very different from the standard offering, but a totally killer blanco, y’all.

81 proof. A / $56 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

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