Review: Oceano Azul Fairway Cognac XO

Listen, there are gimmicks and there are gimmicks, and the golf world has far more than its fair share of them. Oceano Azul’s Fairway Cognac, however, is perhaps the most ambitious scheme we’ve seen to date, and that includes whiskey Ducks Unlimited-branded whiskey bottled in a shotgun shell, metal WhistlePig piggy banks, and booze contained in a ceramic flamingo.

Fairway Cognac’s bottle is relatively plain, save for the faux golf ball used for a stopper, it’s what that bottle resides in that takes the prize. This, as the photo will attest, is a miniature golf bag, complete with zippers, pockets, and a shoulder strap. It includes pop-out legs that let it rest at an inclined angle, and of course you can’t forget your clubs. Two miniature clubs — one wood, one iron — nestle inside the bag alongside the hooch. It’s strictly BYO Putter, though.

Oceano Azul is the same company behind Dona Victoria tequila, also known for its ostentatious packaging. There is no information about the Cognac in the bottle — as you might have guessed — but we do know it’s an XO expression with at least 10 years of age on it. That’s not shabby, but I have to think anyone with a single digit handicap is going to want to know a little more about what’s in the bottle before teeing off on it.

So that’s the setup. Fetch your caddy and let’s get to sipping!

Oceano Azul Fairway Cognac XO Review

As a longtime student of Cognac, I am pleased to report that Oceano Azul is not some gimmick but rather presents itself as a perfectly enjoyable brandy, albeit rather innocuous, particularly on the nose. Here the brandy features decidedly light aromas of apple butter, fresh lavender, some incense, and a dusting of baking spice. Clearly quite sweet, there’s a bold brown sugar quality to the nose, later evoking brown banana. All told, it’s a fairly classic, exuberantly youthful Cognac that doesn’t rock the boat and which acquits itself just fine.

The palate is, as expected, quite sweet, and the banana note again quickly asserts itself — flambeed here, with overtones of golden raisins, coconut cream, and white chocolate. There’s also a floral note, but it’s different and less prominent than the nose presents, honeysuckle that quickly yields to vanilla custard, then some more overtly tropical fruit, heavy on pineapple. Honey-driven sweetness displaces the more sugary elements of the palate in time, which actually leads to an even sweeter finish than expected, though the brandy is never cloying.

There’s a hint of austerity on display late in the game, but the overall vibe is ultimately more fresh, youthful, and fruit-forward than your typical XO. If this was a $50 VSOP I’d be thrilled with it. As a near-$200 XO it’s rather less compelling — though I’m sure if I was stuck in a sand trap, I’d have no trouble leaning on a glass or two of Fairway to help drown my sorrows.

80 proof.

B+ / $190 (700ml) [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

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