Review: TX Whiskey Experimental Series Vino de Naranja
Fort Worth’s TX Whiskey has been on something of a tear when it comes to experimental releases, with new versions currently dropping multiple times per year. One of the latest is Experimental Series #15, which features two main components, both produced and matured on-site at the Pernod Ricard-owned distillery:
5 year-old straight rye whiskey
bourbon whiskey, initially aged in new charred oak then “finished” for three years in Vino de Naranja barrels
Vino de Naranja is a sweet Spanish wine made by macerating bitter orange slices in a concentrated wine. The resulting extract is then added to the wine’s Solera system for final maturation. It’s a barrel type we’ve seen pop up among a few different American whiskey producers, generally imparting — surprise, surprise — pronounced citrus flavors.
TX Whiskey’s final blend was then bottled at 41.75% ABV (83.5 proof). Just 1,500 bottles will be available for purchase at TX’s Whiskey Ranch, with an MSRP of $40 for a 375ml bottle.
Let’s see how this Vino de Naranja-influenced bourbon/rye blend tastes!
TX Whiskey Experimental Series Vino de Naranja Review
The nose starts off with dried figs and medjool dates, evoking lots of early dark fruit. Scents quickly turn earthen and funky. Ozone, petrichor, and old cabinet varnish join up with oxidized wine for a combo that brings to mind a dusty bourbon that’s just been uncorked for the first time in decades. The Vino de Naranja takes over after a couple more minutes, with big wafts of orange curaçao that intersects just a hint of rye spice.
At 83.5 proof, a first sip is light, but — impressively — not particularly thin, especially for this abv. Early flavors include a gentle procession of sweet notes, all touched with citrus: honeysuckle, orange cough syrup, lemon zest, and bergamot. It’s a balanced, approachable early sequence. Things get ever-so-briefly muddled on the midpalate, taking a step back into light citrus simple syrup and not a whole lot else. It’s light, especially compared to the front of the palate, creating a sensation of diminishing flavor. Fortunately, that’s only a temporary malady. A few more tastes allow for baking spices and marmalade to accumulate on the tongue, lending some structure right where the whiskey needs it most.
I’m not one to think more is always better when it comes to proof. But here, it’s tough not to think a little more oomph could help drinkers appreciate those delicate-but-identifiable flavors a sip or two quicker. Intensity builds further on the finish, which features lingering apricot jam, fresh cherries, and a tiny bit of that earthen funk from the nose.
With Experimental Series #15, TX Whiskey has rolled a fun blend that’s captivating on the nose and satisfying on the finish. It’s also enjoyable on the palate, though it does take its time in getting there.
83.5 proof.
B+ / $40 (375ml)
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