Review: Oro y Fierro Kumquat Liqueurs
San Francisco-based Brucato Spirits is the company behind Oro y Fierro (“gold and iron”) a new line of liqueurs based on — wait for it — kumquats. That’s the gist — made with California-grown fruit — so let’s dive in to this pair of sweet operators.
Both are a hearty 80 proof.
Oro y Fierro Kumquat Liqueur Review
Citrusy and sweet on the nose, with a layer of spice and earthiness that is a bit hard to place. Time in glass brings out more of a black tea aroma — nothing I’d ever associated with kumquats, but which works well here.
The palate fires off a sweet-and-sour character I’d associate more with underripe fruit that lands somewhere between citrus and melon, which is perhaps right where the kumquat resides. A bright, almost vinegary acidity builds considerably, but the finish finds its sweet side at last, concluding on a sugary but fruit-filled character with a slightly leathery, earthy punch to it.
Had I not known this was specifically kumquat flavored I would have had no clue as to identifying it. And now that I do know, I have no clue as to how I would use it.
B- / $40
Oro y Fierro Kumquat Chili Liqueur Review
The spicy version of Oro y Fierro makes no attempt to mask its heat, with a layer of cayenne that you can smell from the start. That unmistakable earthy melon/citrus character remains in effect, and aside from the heat it’s basically indistinguishable from the mild version.
The palate is dramatically improved by the add, which somehow coaxes out brighter orange notes and makes clearer its secondary elements of cinnamon and nutmeg. Throughout it all a substantial rush of heat can be felt — a straightforward cayenne character that really lasts, perhaps a level 5 burn on a scale of 1 to 10. Amazingly all that spice makes the underlying fruit and sweetness coalesce more clearly, giving the finish a brighter and more balanced character that more closely resembles a quality triple sec, albeit one with some heat. The funky earthiness of the mild OyF is absent here — burned out, perhaps — which is all for the better.
I’d try it in a margarita.
B+ / $40
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