Review: The Reverend Sour Mash Whiskey

I thought the name Reverend sounded familiar when my sample arrived, and sure enough, I was right. There’s another Reverend whiskey on the market, and it’s unrelated to this release, a sour mash American whiskey of unstated mashbill, aged for more than four years in a mix of new, charred oak and first-fill bourbon casks. After aging (not before) the whiskey is charcoal filtered akin to Tennessee’s Lincoln County Process — which is very unusual for two reasons. First, because Tennessee whiskey is charcoal filtered before it goes into the barrel and second, because The Reverent is actually made in North Carolina.

The Reverend in question is Daniel Houston Call, a preacher who worked with Jack Daniel and Nearest Green in the early days of 19th century distilling. He’s not a household name, but Call Family Distillers, the company behind The Reverend, aims to change that with this release — or at least get it started.

Based on my tasting of the 45% abv mystery whiskey, the distillery is at least off to the right start. It’s a mild on the nose, lightly doughy with peanut overtones, a pinch of baking spice and a half-pinch of red pepper all in the mix. Fruity but indistinct, it mostly leans toward apples with a light craisin overtone.

On the palate, the song changes just a bit — the fruit becomes a bit more forceful and acidic, with a stronger note of cherries amidst the drier cranberry notes. Maple and butterscotch overwhelm vanilla and a light coconut character, with notes of crushed graham crackers, gingery mincemeat, and a brown butter finish. Baking spice and more ginger builds on the finish, alongside a sweet note of marshmallow fluff. Light oak tannins sweetened further by a reprise of maple linger on the fade-out.

The Reverend doesn’t reinvent the wheel — nor does it seem to aspire to — but it’s pleasant on its own and works well enough in a budget-friendly Old Fashioned or whiskey sour. Maybe not what the brand-heirs of Daniel Houston Call aspired to, but it’s a start.

90 proof.

B+ / $36

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