Review: Pinot Noirs of de Negoce, Spring 2024 Releases
We’ve previously covered the negociant mail service de Négoce (“day nuh-go-shay”) and the labels of Cameron Hughes with both deeper dives and surface-level single-bottle reviews. However, it has been a few years since we’ve checked in, and it’s time to see how things are progressing. But first: a mild refresher on how this service works. De Négoce is Hughes’ private concern where he sources and contracts wines. He then plays the futures market with his selections, hoping their quality improves over time. This time around, we are taking a look at a recent pair of Pinots.
2022 OG de Négoce Lot 434 Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir – A single vineyard selection from Sta. Rita Hills opens with a classic Pinot Noir profile of cherry, spice, and rose on the nose. Some hints of cigar box and clove emerge with time but never throw the balance off. Well-integrated tannins and medium-high acidity on a juicy palate of cranberry and cherry provide good structure, and the finish of baking spice, vanilla, and cherry conclude matters without a trace of dissonance. A straightforward Pinot in good form worthy of the asking price and ready to drink now or, better yet, in about a year. A- / $30
2021 OG de Négoce Lot 433 Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir – A core of black cherry and raspberry lead the charge throughout, with lapsang black tea and rose making appearances on the nose. Even with a bit of time in the glass, it never shakes the earthy, umami elements with mushroom and turned earth all arriving on a palate. Balanced acidity and lighter tannins fortunately keep this from running off the rails. There’s good potential here, but it’s a slightly turbulent traveling present day. It certainly could do with several years away from sight to sort itself out. B- / $16
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