Review: Natterjack Cask Strength Irish Whiskey

We tasted Gortinore Distilling’s flagship Natterjack Irish Whiskey last spring and found it to be exceedingly approachable but not exactly earth-shattering on the flavor front. A cask strength version dropped around the same time, but a sample only recently found its way onto our desk. As a reminder, this is a younger Irish whiskey (under four years old) aged in ex-bourbon casks and made with a corn-heavy mashbill (80%), then finished in new American oak for six months, reportedly to appeal to bourbon lovers. Does a significant jump in abv fill in the original Natterjack’s flavor gaps?

Yes and then some. The nose is expectantly bolder with bigger, juicier notes of green apple, fresh melon, and sticky vanilla bean. There’s some volatility at work, which isn’t surprising given the abv on this young whiskey. All that alcohol manifests in subtle undertones of pencil lead and petrol at first, but with time to open those elements mostly dissolve into more balanced oak tones and warm spice. The palate is a radical departure from the original but still impressively approachable, especially at such a robust abv. The few rough edges I found at first sip were sufficiently softened with a splash of water. Bright, syrupy top notes of key lime, custard, and green Jolly Ranchers give way on the midpalate to lemon oil and butterscotch, all well-balanced with a gentle spice. It’s not until the finish that the heat really arrives with a punch of fresh black pepper and baking spice before a long, warm conclusion of graham cracker, cinnamon apples, and brown butter.

Impressive for a young Irish whiskey. Maybe up the flagship offering to 50%? Just a suggestion.

126 proof.

A- / $90 / natterjack.com

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