Review: Bruichladdich Islay Barley 2014, Re/Define 18, and Re/Define 30
Bruichladdich has just launched a new series of whiskies dubbed Luxury Redefined — or Re/Define, per the label. The pair of high age statement whiskies are “taken from landmark moments in the distillery’s recent history, charting its renaissance since 2001.” They also highlight Bruichladdich’s commitment to sustainability, with “an industry-first, fully recyclable bespoke outer wrap” in lieu of a metal canister.
Here’s some errata for the faithful:
The first 18-year-old single malt in the Bruichladdich portfolio, The Bruichladdich Eighteen is a true coming-of-age bottling. When the distillery was reopened in 2001, the Bruichladdich team set course to reconnect land and dram, championing its raw ingredients, introducing the concept of terroir to the whisky world, and supporting the local community.
In pursuit of flavor and to support the agricultural community on Islay, Bruichladdich began working with one farmer in 2004 to raise a crop of locally grown barley. This pioneering trial has expanded to include 20 farming partners today who grow over 50% of the distillery’s barley for total production.
“18 years ago, we distilled spirit from locally grown barley and our passion to diversify and champion our growing program has never wavered,” said Head Distiller Adam Hannett. “Every element of The Bruichladdich Eighteen – from the specific harvest and barely varietals used, to the exact casks it has matured in – is fully traceable. At Bruichladdich Distillery, we’re committed to making delicious whisky with real provenance that benefits the community – and The Bruichladdich Eighteen is the embodiment of this ethos.”
The Bruichladdich Thirty is the story of the distillery’s resurrection. Bruichladdich almost ended in the late 20th century when the doors to the distillery were forced to close in 1994. Over the next seven years, the two remaining staff safeguarded the casks which continued to mature in the depths of the warehouses, before the distillery was reopened in 2001.
“The Bruichladdich Thirty has been distilled using these legacy – almost lost – casks, capturing a pivotal moment in time for the distillery,” explains Adam Hannett. “This 30-year-old single malt not only celebrates the resurrection of our Victorian distillery but pays homage to the men who laid down this spirit three decades ago.”
Challenging traditional perceptions of modern luxury, the prestige bottlings feature an industry-first bespoke, sustainable outer wrap. Brought to life by James Cropper, a global market leader in advanced materials and paper products, the lightweight outer package is made from fully recyclable paper pulp and perfectly molded to the shape of the Bruichladdich proprietary bottle. The packaging is completely plastic-free and produced using 100% green energy, demonstrating that premium single malt Scotch whisky can be both sustainable and aesthetically beautiful.
Furthermore, aligning with the B Corp distillery’s commitment to reduce its packaging and waste, the Luxury Redefined series is housed in the brand’s new decanter-style proprietary bottle. The new bottle contains an average of 60% recycled glass content, is lighter in weight, and features an elegant glass closure.
Whew!
We got samples of both whiskies plus the latest release of Bruichladdich’s vintage-dated Islay Barley bottling, which we include here as a fun reference point. Let’s crack some corks!
Bruichladdich Islay Barley 2014 – The 2014 harvest of local barley on the island of Islay was malted, mashed, and distilled, then aged for 8 years in first-fill bourbon barrels (80%) along with a combination of second-fill sherry butts (5%) and second-fill wine casks (15%). It’s a classic — almost iconic — expression of what Bruichladdich does best, melding bright stone fruit and sultrier baked apple notes with a hearty cereal character that truly does evoke the earth from which it came, ever so pastoral with hints of mushroom and saddle leather. The palate is a perfect representation of that nose, with chewy caramel mixing with sesame on the lustrous, almost glossy finish. A sharp punch of citrus recalls a perfectly expressed orange peel over a cocktail as a stinger. Perfectly proofed, impossible not to love. 100 proof. A / $75
Bruichladdich Re/Define Eighteen 18 Years Old – Matured exclusively on Islay in primarily ex-bourbon casks — though my nose says there may be a little sherry in the mix here. Pretty with fragrant notes of honey and toasty grains, and edge of citrus and oily mahogany wood evoke wine casks on the nose. There’s almost a red wine-like tannic quality that emerges with time in glass. On the palate, the flavor tracks the aromatics, with lots of fresh, sweet honey, apple butter, and immersive toasted cereal notes. Late in the game you may catch touches of lemon, grapefruit, and some green tea. While the finish feels a little gritty and even a little smoky for a whisky that is otherwise elegant and refined, it’s a perfect way to honor Bruichladdich’s past — and future. 100 proof. A- / $180 [BUY IT NOW FROM RESERVEBAR]
Bruichladdich Re/Define Thirty 30 Years Old – Entirely aged in ex-bourbon casks. Here we find Bruichladdich apparently in its most brooding, mature years, a departure from the classic style of the distillery, the whisky taking on a more leathery, sultry, well-aged quality. The nose is surprisingly racy, evoking notes of peppered bacon, oiled wood, and tea tree oil. It’s never overbearing, but it’s hardly the fruit-and-cereal experience that younger Bruichladdich provides — at least at first. Punches of menthol hint at a subsurface vibrancy you don’t exactly expect. Sure enough: Time in glass tempers the experience and helps everything meld together, the oily leather and wood melting into notes of well-spiced applesauce, candied walnuts, and slightly smoky black tea. There’s no peat here, don’t get me wrong, but 30 years of exposure to wood has imbued this whisky with a savory, slightly winey character that is at once austere and deft on its feet. The fruit arrives eventually, late to the party: apples, lemon curd, even some apricot, all held in beautiful check by the muscles of the barrel. Notes of dark chocolate and a slight touch of coffee bean give the finish a lush dessert-like quality to close things out. Never once did I want to put this whisky down. And so, I chose not to. 86.4 proof. A / $2000 [BUY IT NOW FROM RESERVEBAR]
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