Review: 3 Wines from Beaujolais, 2023 Releases

Beaujolais seems to be a region on the rise, and I find it on more and more wine lists these days. That’s a good thing, because Beaujolais is affordable, versatile, and — as you’ll see in the trio of reviews below — extremely variable in its characteristics and palate. Let’s try three, each from a different part of the region.

2020 Domaine David-Beaupere Les Trois Verres Julienas – Brisk, slightly balsamic with a grassy quality. Fresh cherry touched with strawberry notes: These are expressive and immersive, giving the acidic wine a summery lift. Spring flowers, bee pollen, and strident acidity late in the game. Slightly funky, vegetal, and “natural” in construction. Definitely a solid springtime sipper at 12% abv. B+ / $30

2020 Camille Melinand Chiroubles – Probably the most approachable wine in the group — though also the least complex — this Chiroubles bottling is bold with blackberry jam notes, mint jelly, and a pinch of brown sugar, making for a summer-friendly red that bursts with character. Hints of tea leaf and raspberry round out an expressive, enduring, and decidedly cheerful experience — albeit one that starts to get a little sweet during the second glass. A- / $38

2019 Domaine Gilles Coperet Fleurie La Madone – A rich but earthy wine, evoking notes of blackberry jam and mint before taking a more savory detour, dominated by forest floor and peppery gentian notes. Ample tannins here drive a finish that adds a balsamic note with touches of black pepper, sesame, and mixed green herbs. Drink this (and any Fleurie) with food, not solo. B+ / $20

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