Review: NV Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve Porto Special Vina Velha Edition

Graham’s continues to turn out limited bottlings, special editions based on its iconic Six Grapes Port. This latest is called the Special Vila Velha Edition, and it’s drawn exclusively from the grapes grown at Quinta da Vila Velha, one of the four Douro estates that supplies Graham’s Port.

The property was purchased by the late third-generation Port producer, James Symington, in 1987. For over three decades, James restored and extended the quinta into a well-tended 145-hectare riverside property with 55 hectares under vine. With its privileged position on the south bank of the Douro River, Vila Velha produces well-structured and balanced wines that form key components of Graham’s Vintage Ports. The Symington family has produced this Special Edition Reserve Ruby Port to mark James’ passing in 2020 and to honor his role in developing Graham’s iconic Six Grapes label.

The ‘Special Vila Velha Edition’ follows two previous limited bottlings of Six Grapes – one drawn exclusively from Graham’s ‘Old Vines’ and another from its ‘River Quintas’. With just 12,000 bottles produced, the Six Grapes Vila Velha edition is a hand-crafted wine in honor of James Symington.

True to expectations, this is a classic expression of Six Grapes that showcases its best qualities. Rich, chocolate-heavy notes move quickly into the expected raisin character, almost pruny at times. It’s a touch oversweet, but not aggressively so, hinting at herbal notes of rosemary and mint which give some welcome complexity to the finish. Lightly acidic, with a touch of orange peel on the fade-out.

A- / $42 / grahams-port.com

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