Review: 2018 Kenefick Ranch Pickett Road Red

Kenefick Ranch’s Pickett Road Red is a curious blend of 63% petit verdot, 25% merlot, and 12% cabernet franc — all estate grown in Calistoga, California, and aged for 18 months.

A dense wine, there’s a dark and dusty quality up front that evokes licorice and dark chocolate amidst a brooding, tannic core. A slightly underripe cassis character feels like this wine could use another two-plus years before hitting its prime and letting its fruit out of its current cage, though for now it has a certain austerity that gives it a level of gravitas and intrigue. There’s no shortage of intensity here, making for an experience that could pass for a Napa cabernet sauvignon — even though there’s no cab in the blend.

B+ / $55 / kenefickranch.com

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