Review: 2018 Knostman Malbec
Oregon’s Umpqua Valley isn’t exactly an immediate selection one thinks of when discussing West Coast wines, but a quick search on the Umpqua Valley Winegrowers site reveals nearly two dozen wineries in operation, with more on the way. This malbec comes from the Knostman Family Vineyard, an up-and-coming operation with plenty of varietals from which to sample. A recent chance encounter with an old friend brought this bottle to the table, with both events being pleasantly fortuitous.
Unsurprisingly, there are lots of lighter berry notes on the initial approach which, with a little bit of time, settle and allow for the emergence of sweeter baking spices. Balanced and gorgeous on the palate, its lingering notes of fruit and spice never get too overblown or dominant in one direction. The finish is a bit too short, with the red fruit notes making a slightly abrupt exit and notes of cinnamon and nutmeg staying around longer.
There are vintages of a more recent date than this available, but it looks as if they are currently limited to wine club members. This is a shame because if it rings consistent with this bottle, the 2019 and 2020 are worth consideration for a wide release. Sometimes the best stuff can be found off the beaten path.
A- / $28 / knostmanfamilywinery.com
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