Review: Penelope Masters of Golf Hole 01, Riviera, and Blackberry Old Fashioned
Penelope has been extremely busy of late, putting out new whiskeys and RTD cocktails at a rapid clip. Today we’re looking at three of them, including a fruity bottled old fashioned and a pair of finished whiskeys.
Penelope Architects of Golf Hole 01 Review
The whiskey world loves no sport more than golf, so leave it to Penelope to start a new series of whiskeys that will probably end up spanning 18 editions, or “Holes,” in the parlance of the brand. Three holes have been dropped from the start, each a 6 year old straight bourbon distinguished by a unique spin on its finishing technique. All three expressions are made from a 60% corn, 36% rye, 4% barley mashbill and were finished with additional American oak staves (a la Maker’s 46), the only difference among them being the length of the finishing time, which is measured in weeks. However, Penelope doesn’t disclose that finishing time for any of the offerings. In any case, we received only Hole 01 for review.
It’s a surprisingly lively and, at times, decadent bourbon, the stave finishing clearly having an outsized impact. The nose is bold and quite oak-forward, peppery and a touch smoky, but also big with cloves and grains with a heavy toast. Time in glass perks up a surprising fruit overtone — slightly pruny, with a dark chocolate glaze — which adds some lovely nuance to what could otherwise be a barrel-heavy experience.
The palate definitely drinks older than 6 years of age, smoldering chocolate and vanilla pushy against, again, a hefty fruitiness — blueberry, blackberry, touched with baking spice. This is one of those whiskeys that shifts fairly heavily as the finish arrives, becoming quite savory again, laden with wood and notes of furniture polish, then swinging back, at least a bit, toward anise and darker spice notes, with a reprise of clove and some anise.
I didn’t think this golf-themed whiskey was going to amount to much, but damn if it doesn’t make me want to pick up a 3-iron. 94 proof. A- / $80
Penelope Riviera Review
Riviera is the latest addition to Penelope Bourbon’s Cooper Series. It’s made by blending an 8-year-old American light whiskey with straight bourbon (no age stated), and is finished in rosé wine casks from Spain. If you remember Penelope Rose Cask Finish, this is something of a sequel (though Rose Cask Finish was a bourbon).
Riviera isn’t quite as delightful, a heavily charred nose giving the aromatics a thick smear of toasty wood, mildly smoky at times and heavy with gravelly asphalt notes and, curiously, a healthy touch of menthol. I’ll be quick to note that Rose Cask had a lot of the same aromas, but that things livened up quickly on its palate, showcasing effusive cherry and chocolate notes. There’s a lot of that here, but it takes longer to show its face, the woodiness maintaining long-term dominance. Eventually, the finish brightens up and pours on that fruit, offering more of a maraschino cherry overtone than anything else. It’s a close #2 to the original, but my heart still lies with the forebear. 94 proof. B+ / $80
Penelope Blackberry Old Fashioned Review
A fruity foil to Penelope’s Black Walnut Old Fashioned, this one really does wear those berries on its sleeve. The punch of blackberry isn’t entirely distinct, however. This could be a mix of blackberry with raspberry, strawberry, currant, and/or blueberry, but it’s really the dessert-like thought that counts, I suppose. Ample waves of chocolate and vanilla serve to temper the fruit before its sweetness gets out of control — though there’s a summery punch of maraschino cherry on the finish that feels perfectly on point with what’s come before. Simple, summertime sipping here. 38 proof. A- / $25
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