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Review: 2021 Quinta da Fonte Souto Syrah

Syrah is not a grape I associate at all with Portugal, but we live in unsettled times, and as with the rest of the world, wine is shifting, too. From the Alentejo comes this curious bottling of Syrah, the Symington family’s first foray outside its historic home of the Duoro.

Quinta da Fonte Souto strategically leverages the significant cooling effect of its mountain location. The entire 511 acre estate is nestled in the Serra de São Mamede mountain range at an elevation of 1640 feet. This elevation is vital, recognized for delivering the naturally cooling influence that imparts the trademark freshness and elegance found in the finished wines. The low-yielding, mature vines of the estate further contribute to the structure and complexity of its wines. This 100% Syrah is matured for 12 months in second-year 400 liter French oak barrels.

Dense and slightly beefy, this could well be a New World syrah, heavy with elements of black, almost charred fruit, alongside anise and dark chocolate. The tannins are intense on this wine, the slightest level of balsamic acidity serving to pull it out of the depths that dominate the experience. Greenery rings the edges of the wine, first fresh parsley and rosemary, later a touch of pine needles. Raspberry and anise linger on the finish.

Such an odd, unexpected experience — I’m still processing it in the context of Portuguese still wines.

B+ / $48

The post Review: 2021 Quinta da Fonte Souto Syrah appeared first on Drinkhacker: The Insider’s Guide to Good Drinking.

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