Review: Kilkerran 16 Years Old
Kilkerran, like many other Campbeltown whiskies, owes its existence to the late Hedley Wright. The fifth-generation scion of the whisky-making Mitchell family resurrected the single malt’s parent distillery, Glengyle, in 2004 after nearly 80 years of absence. Of the many dead Campbeltown distilleries to bring back to life, why Glengyle? It probably helped that the distillery was conveniently located adjacent to Springbank, where Mr. Wright’s family had already been making sought-after single malts for nearly two centuries.
Despite arriving on shelves nearly two decades ago, Kilkerran remains one of the smallest Scotch whisky brands, boutique even by the standards of its modest Campbeltown neighbors with typical production of less than 100,000 liters a year. Still, Kilkerran and Glengyle Distillery were important additions to the Campbeltown whisky landscape, demonstrating that the industry could grow there after generations of slow decline and reinforcing Campbeltown’s official recognition as an enduring Scotch whisky region in 2009.
Like its more famous and much older brother Springbank, all Kilkerran production is done in-house, from malting to bottling, and typically for only a few months each year. The current Kilkerran lineup is small but impressive with several age-stated offerings including a flagship 12-year-old and cask strength 8-year-old. A non-age stated, heavily peated expression is released twice a year showcasing a departure from Glengyle’s typically lightly peated style. But today, we’re kicking off our Kilkerran coverage with a look at the top of the current range and the distillery’s oldest available expression. Thoughts follow.
Kilkerran 16 Years Old Review
On annual offer since 2020, the exact maturation of Kilkerran’s 16-year-old single malt varies from year to year. For 2023, the production year of our sample, the breakdown was reportedly 60% sherry casks, 35% bourbon casks, and 5% rum casks.
Kilkerran fans familiar with their younger, higher octane small batch releases will be forgiven for being a little surprised by the comparative passivity and elegance of this elder expression. The aroma is gentle and silky with early notes of orange oil and lemon custard that give way to more orchard fruit – applesauce and pear skins – as things open. Laced throughout is a soft, airy peat note like cold, struck matchheads or candle smoke. While the intensity of the aroma may be subdued, undertones of that familiar Campbeltown coastal funk remain with oily sea spray and farm-y notes of dried heather and horse stalls.
The palate is light-bodied but energetic with a fresh, tropical entry that comes across unusually high tone for a mature single malt. Sweet notes of barley sugar and waffle cone are accentuated with peach rings, candied orange peel, and ripe banana. The midpalate tempers some of that initial sweetness with a soft, peppery warmth and notes of waxy honeycomb, red licorice, and saline. A bit of charcoal smoke and crispy barbecue transitions to woodshop notes on the finish accompanied by dried thyme, salted almonds, and lemon peel. What appeared at first a simple, easy going single malt becomes something altogether more enticing and dynamic at the end of the sip. What’s more, it’s an impressive value for an older and rarer Campbeltown single malt.
92 proof.
A / $150 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
The post Review: Kilkerran 16 Years Old appeared first on Drinkhacker: The Insider’s Guide to Good Drinking.