Review: 2022 Campo Viejo Rioja Tempranillo

Campo Viejo is an iconic part of Rioja, a place where wine has allowed ample time to permeate the landscape, economy and local culture. It’s been quite a few years since we’ve had anything from the winery, so it’s time to revisit and check out its flagship offering.

The nose on this Tempranillo does everything in its power to achieve a classic profile, with immediate aromas of roasted plum and dry cherry, with a light bit of wispy smoke eventually arriving with time in the glass. The palate opens up to reveal something slightly jammier: a core of raspberry, strawberry and a dusting of cocoa powder in harmony with one another. It stays pretty much that way throughout, but the oak aging brings out light notes of vanilla and clove on the finish that does not overwhelm the fruit but provides some depth and versatility.

It’s not aiming to rewrite expectations of Tempranillo. However, much to its credit, it delivers consistency and approachability that works across a wide range of occasions. Whether it’s opened midweek and paired alongside a simple meal or an elaborate weekend dinner party, it meets the moment without asking for too much engagement or effort in return. And here’s something you don’t see these days: it’s priced so someone could buy without thinking too hard about their purchase. And if they’re already a fan of Tempranillo or wines from Rioja, it is not out of the question they could return for encores.

A- / $14

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