Review: 6 Big Italian Wines, 2022 Vintage
This summer may not take you to Tuscany in person, but you can get there in spirit by enjoying the wines of the region at home. Here’s a look at six new releases from Italy, all from the 2022 vintage.
2022 Querceto di Castellina L’aura Chianti Classico DOCG – One of the heartiest wines in this lineup, with a bold edge of balsamic and thick tannins, this is a Chianti Classico that will stand well another five or more years in cellar before its true charms bubble up to the surface. Tart, underripe cherry and bitter rhubarb dominate an aggressive experience that never really lets up, with finishing notes of dark chocolate and anise. Intense but layered with character. B+ / $28
2022 Castello la Leccia Chianti Classico DOCG – Dry and heavy on the herbs, particularly rosemary, with a hearty balsamic backbone. Boldly acidic, the underlying notes of cherry, iconic to sangiovese, perk up in a particular way here, ringed with anise and, eventually, gravelly barnyard notes. Tight and green on the finish, it culminates with touches of smoldering sage and bay leaf. B+ / $20
2022 Grignano Poggio Gualtieri Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG – Surprisingly bitter, with overtones of rhubarb and anise, this is a brooding expression of Chianti, rumbling with gravelly notes that evoke elements of creosote and crushed cloves. Rather underripe as the finish arrives, the wine is a bit of a handful when sipped on its own, but it pairs surprisingly well with heartier fare, cutting deftly through fattier flavors. B+ / $22
2022 Viandante del Cielo Lungolago Umbria Bianco IGT – The only white wine in this lineup is a blend of Chardonnay and Grechetto (70/30). This wine kicks off with notes of preserved lemon and coconut before delving into the flower shop, showing honeysuckle, then fresh mint. Rather earthy on the finish, but never overbearing. B / $65
2022 Pomario Ciliegiolo Umbria Rosso IGT – Bright plum and slightly sour rhubarb notes interrupt a through-line of tart cherry, licorice, and tar, with edges of dark chocolate visible as the finish builds. Rustic and a bit barnyardy throughout, the earthiness can be rather heavy, though a late-game burst of blackberry adds a respite from the heavier elements in the wine. B / $20
2022 San Gregorio Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG – A somewhat thin Chianti, though its up-front notes of cherry and blueberry are engaging, if overtly juicy and effervescent. A moderately barnyardy quality adds an earthy, almost leathery character, but the finish is on the short side, lightly bitter, with rhubarb lingering. It’s a fair by-the-glass offering, but nothing that will blow your mind. B- / $20
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