Review: Middle West Sherry Cask Bourbon
In the mid-nineteenth century, the cultural layout of Columbus, Ohio, underwent a profound transformation. Between 1830-1850, a massive wave of immigrants established Germans as the largest ancestral group in the state. By 1865, a remarkable one-third of the city’s population was either German-born or of German descent, settling in what are now the historic Brewery District and German Village. These residents defined the city’s early industry through their mastery as brewers and bakers. They brought with them a deep affinity for pumpernickel and dark rye bread, culinary staples of their homeland that filled the local air with the scent of toasted grains and fermenting yeast. This heritage created a specific flavor profile for the region, and it is this 150-year-old tradition that Columbus’ Middle West Spirits seeks to revive by utilizing dark pumpernickel rye grain in its various mashbills. Batch 006 of Middle West Double Cask Collection Sherry-Cask Finished Bourbon takes this Western European heritage and amplifies it through secondary maturation in PX sherry casks from Spain.
While the exact origin of their dark pumpernickel rye grain is undisclosed, its spirit is undeniably German. By choosing this heavy, unconventional grain over standard rye, Middle West has effectively injected the DNA of those original German tradesmen into bourbon, America’s native spirit. It is an interesting synthesis: a whiskey that meets every legal requirement of a domestic American product while honoring the immigrant story of the people who built the Midwest. The mashbill, consisting of 68% non-GMO corn, 16% soft red winter wheat from northern Ohio, 11% dark pumpernickel rye, and 5% two-row malted barley, serves as a liquid bridge between the American frontier and Old World.
The distillate comes off the still at 136.5 proof before entering Speyside Cooperage barrels with a heavy #4 char at 120 proof. The barrels were constructed from staves seasoned in the open-air for 18 months and held bourbon for at least 5 years during its initial maturation. The story then takes a final, sophisticated turn as the contents of 30 barrels were transferred into 20 60-gallon hogsheads. These secondary vessels previously aged Pedro Ximénez sherry in Spain for 8 years. The sherry casks were filled at 123-125 proof, resting for an additional 2 years.
This Double Cask Collection creates a unique intersection where Midwestern grit meets Western European influence. Is this ambitious tribute to Columbus heritage a bottle worth seeking out? Let’s pour a glass and find out.
Middle West Double Cask Collection Sherry-Cask Finished Bourbon Review
The PX sherry cask announces its presence immediately, sending aromas of prunes and grape Big League Chew surging from the glass. Once those primary fruit notes settle, milk chocolate takes center stage alongside a light whiff of pipe tobacco. This introduction warrants attention and creates genuine anticipation for the first sip.
The initial taste delivers a concentrated hit of pure maple syrup and dried cherries. As the liquid moves across the tongue, nutmeg and creamy milk chocolate take over. The mouthfeel is heavy, showing a syrupy thickness that is clearly bolstered by the sherry influence. This intensity carries through to the finish, where cherry syrup meets the zing of ginger ale. While milk chocolate returns for a final showing, a quick prickle of black pepper keeps the sweetness in check.
I have explored numerous bourbons finished in sherry casks but rarely find one that truly resonates. This Batch 006 from Middle West is a stellar exception. It stands out as one of the best PX finishes I have encountered in recent memory. While the profile is certainly fruit-forward and sweet, it all feels right. Having tried several Double Cask expressions from Middle West, I can say with certainty that this release is the highlight of their Double Cask lineup. It is a mandatory addition to any shelf, even for those who usually shy away from sherry-finished bourbon.
97.25 proof.
A / $100
The post Review: Middle West Sherry Cask Bourbon appeared first on Drinkhacker: The Insider’s Guide to Good Drinking.