Review: Wolfcraig Blended Scotch Whiskies 14, 30, and 35 Years Old
Wolfcraig is a new blended Scotch whisky brand with an unusual backer: González Byass USA, best known for producing and distributing Spanish sherry and brandy expressions. While Byass owns Nomad, this is the operation’s first foray into ultra-premium whisky, and it’s doing so in style, with Richard Paterson (of The Dalmore fame) and Ian Macmillan (of Bunnahabhain and others) running the show.
Per the company:
Wolfcraig is inspired by an ancient Scottish tale in which a wolf cub’s howl foiled a Norse ambush on a Celtic garrison, securing victory for the Celts. The battlefield has been known as “Wolfcraig” ever since, and today that spirit of vigilance, courage, and triumph lives on in every bottle.
“Joining González Byass USA is an exciting milestone for Wolfcraig,” says Richard Paterson, Master Blender of Wolfcraig. “Their expertise and proven track record in bringing exceptional brands to the U.S. provides us with a remarkable opportunity to showcase how Wolfcraig defines the premium blended Scotch category. With Ian and myself dedicated to crafting whiskies of unrivaled character, we are confident that Wolfcraig will resonate strongly with discerning American whisky enthusiasts.”
The launch portfolio spans three releases, all limited editions with much different designs (as you’ll see in a moment). Note that you needn’t purchase full bottles of these, as a sampler pack is available on the brand’s website — and is how we tasted these expressions. Note that those samples are packaged not in mini bottles but in plastic packets. I found them inconvenient and messy. Get rid of this format, folks!
Wolfcraig 14 Years Old Deluxe Blend Triple Sherry Cask Finish Review
Finished for 3 years in a combination of Amontillado, Moscatel, and PX sherry casks. Intensely nutty and winey on the nose, the sherry is redolent here from the start — and amplified by the deep amber color of the whisky in the glass. The palate does not diverge from expectations, with a deep dive into nutty Amontillado and, to a lesser degree, raisiny PX, which adds some ruddy, slightly muddy fruit. Dark chocolate and gingerbread notes build on the midpalate, while the finish reaches deep for the cereal element, giving the finish a slightly dough, cracker-like quality. Sherry and grain whisky can sometimes make for fitful companions, but it turns out the aggressive impact of the wine cask works quite well here. 4401 bottles produced. 92.2 proof. B+ / $145
Wolfcraig 30 Years Old Premium Blend Limited Edition Review
This fun blend brings in whiskies (of unstated type) from all five Scotch-producing regions then finishes it all in Pedro Ximenez sherry casks and American white oak bourbon barrels. Sherry perks up the nose right away, but it’s not nearly as overpowering as the 14 year old offering, leaving room amidst the hazelnuts and walnuts for notes of spice and tobacco, adding nuance and refinement. The palate sees a modest fruitiness that evokes mandarins and sultanas, later an earthier taste of kumquat along with some coffee. Sweeter elements build as the finish approaches, a mix of brown sugar and black tea. Engaging and complex, with a nice mix of sweet, savory, and spicy elements. 1472 bottles produced. 92.6 proof. A / $577
Wolfcraig 35 Years Old Blended Grain Review
All grain whisky: Drawn from “highly aged casks from distilleries that are no longer distilling, often referred to as ‘silent distilleries.’” The entirety is bourbon cask aged for a minimum of 35 years. The nose plays things close the vest, coming across as indistinct, particularly in comparison to the above, sherry-heavy offerings. Sweet cereal and marzipan are the primary aromas, with baked apples and caramel building with time in glass. There’s a subtle oxidized quality here, evocative of fino sherry, the palate running to baked apples and a layer of marzipan. The sweetness inherent in grain whiskey is tempered to a degree, but it roars back on a finish that features lemon curd and lots of vanilla. This one goes down easy but lacks the complexity of the 30 year old. 1112 bottles produced. 93.6 proof. A- / $448
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