Review: Oxbow Rhum Louisiane and Single Barrel Agricole

An estimated 95% of the world’s rum is distilled from molasses, a material that originated as an industrial byproduct of sugar production. By contrast, only about 2-4% of global rum output is made from fermented fresh cane juice. This smaller tradition is closely tied to French colonial history and is commonly known as rhum agricole.

In 1996, “Rhum Agricole” became a protected geographical indication through the creation of AOC Martinique. Martinique remained a French colony until March 19, 1946, and the designation firmly tied the term to the island. While “Rhum Agricole” itself is geographically protected, agricole-style rum is produced well beyond Martinique, including in Louisiana, another former French colony that changed hands in December 1803.

Sugar has been part of the Stewart family’s Louisiana history since 1859. Today, Olivia Stewart serves as president of the family’s estate distillery, Oxbow Rum Distillery. The operation was rebranded in 2022, having previously been known as Three Roll Estate. The name Oxbow highlights the distillery’s relationship to the oxbow geography formed by sharp bends in the Mississippi River.

With Cole Brannum as distiller, Oxbow produces both traditional molasses-based rum and an agricole-style rhum made from fresh cane juice grown on the estate in Pointe Coupee Parish. Rather than using the protected terminology, Oxbow identifies this expression as “Rhum Louisiane” with the word “agricole” positioned much lower on the label, never pairing the words “rhum” and “agricole” side-by-side.

The distillery relies on the estate-grown HoCP 96-540 sugarcane variety, a modern cultivar developed at the USDA Sugarcane Research Station in Houma, Louisiana. Widely regarded as the backbone of the Louisiana sugar industry, HoCP 96-540 helped bridge older agricultural practices with modern, high-yield production. Released in 2003, it is a cross between two influential local varieties, LCP 86-454 and LCP 85-384.

HoCP 96-540 was engineered to survive Louisiana’s demanding harvest season, a roughly 100-day stretch running from late September through January. It is especially valued for its physical toughness and for leaf sheaths that shed easily from the stalk during harvest. This natural shedding results in cleaner cane entering the mill, with less field trash such as dead leaves and organic debris. For agricole-style rhum, which ferments raw cane juice, reduced chlorophyll-heavy material in the crush allows for a clearer expression of cane sugar and terroir.

The variety is also prized for its dense stalks, which yield juice rich in non-sugar solids. These compounds contribute to the grassy aromas and funky esters associated with agricole-style rhum. At Oxbow, the cane is crushed once on the family estate using a three-roll sugarcane mill, producing juice with an average Brix of 16 to 20.

Fermentation takes place in closed-top vessels over a 36-hour period, resulting in a wash between 10-12% ABV. Distillation follows on a Vendome pot and column hybrid still, producing spirit in the range of 170-180 proof. Across the portfolio, Oxbow gradually reduces natural proof to bottling strength over 60 days in stainless steel tanks.

Oxbow provided Drinkhacker with samples of two cane juice expressions for review, Oxbow Estate Rhum Louisiane Cane Juice Agricole and Oxbow Estate Rhum Louisiane Single Barrel. With that foundation in place, it is time to see what this former French colony in the United States brings to the glass.

Oxbow Estate Rhum Louisiane Cane Juice Agricole Review

Bottled at 90 proof and released without time in barrel, this rhum places its raw cane origin squarely in view. Without wood influence, agricole-style spirits tend to lean heavily into vegetal territory when compared with molasses-based rum, and that character is on full display here.

The nose begins with a clear hit of watermelon rind and kiwi. After a few minutes in the glass, basil joins in, followed by the tart snap of Granny Smith apple. For anyone encountering an agricole-style rhum for the first time, this aromatic profile quickly signals that the spirit was not distilled from molasses.

The palate opens on raw sugar beets and chalk dust. Midway through, ripe cantaloupe and lime sherbet come forward, carried by a medium-bodied mouthfeel. The closing moments turn slightly sweeter and less aggressive, showing Lemonhead candy, seaweed nori, and a light touch of peach ring candy.

Sipped neat, this is an enjoyable detour from unaged molasses-based rum and a solid introduction to fresh cane distillation. It performs even better in cocktails, particularly a Ti’ Punch. Made with agricole-style rhum, cane syrup, and a lime coin, the drink allows the rum’s green, fruity elements to shine, with the lime enhancing rather than covering what’s already there.

At $50, this is a unique and entertaining American rhum that rewards curiosity, especially for drinkers interested in exploring the broader world of cane juice spirits. 90 proof. B / $50

Oxbow Estate Rhum Louisiane Single Barrel Aged Agricole Review

While specific barrel details for this single barrel release were not disclosed, the rum spent a minimum of two years and as many as four or more years resting in new 53-gallon barrels from Independent Stave Co., with either a #3 or #4 char. Time in new oak brings a clear shift from the unaged version, reshaping the spirit in meaningful ways.

The nose starts on damp tree bark and crushed fern, reading earthy before pivoting toward peppermint with a faint streak of rubber cement funk. The oak presence is undeniable while still allowing the cane juice-driven character to speak.

On the palate, crisp char-grilled corn on the cob leads, brushed with butter and a touch of chalky minerality. Lime zest and underripe banana appear midstream, adding brightness alongside a medium-bodied mouthfeel. The closing notes turn toward pecan brittle, fresh peppermint, and starfruit, tying together sweetness, herbaceous tones, and mild oak influence.

This single barrel expression stands apart from any other American cane spirit I have encountered, and it delivers a genuinely rewarding experience. While molasses-based rum remains my personal preference, this agricole-style release is an appreciated diversion. 99 proof. B+ / $61

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