Review: ZeroNero [red] Non-Alcoholic Aperitivo

Cocktail & Sons makes some amazing artisanal syrups and mixers, and lately it’s put its first foot into the non-alcoholic spirits space with the launch of ZeroNero [red], a bitter amaro designed for solo sipping or for use in cocktails or with simple mixers like seltzer or soda. Listed botanicals include cloves, cassia bark, star anise, fennel seed, orange peel, elderberries, lemon balm, spearmint, hibiscus, rose petals, agave, and wormwood / angelica root / quassia bark.

ZeroNero [red] Non-Alcoholic Aperitivo Review

On its own, the amaro pours a deep shade of crimson with a thicker viscosity than I was expecting, short of syrupy but certainly dense, with some weight to it. That’s welcome, as many NA amari tend to be surprisingly thin, which dulls the experience a lot.

The nose is brightly herbal with a particular focus on cloves and anise. Behind that, gentle rose-driven florals add some texture, while the bittering elements are amply displayed. Rounded and authentic, this has the aromatically brooding spice and bitterness of a classic Italian amaro — though more of the brown variety than the red. Its red color may be deceptive, as it noses closer to a Montenegro than a Campari.

Same goes for the palate, where the product’s sweetness is far better evidenced than what you might expect from the nose. Here, a lively berry note (elderberry, dried cherry, some prune) leads the way to a spice-fueled reprise of cloves and a heavier cinnamon character which plays well with the sweetness. The experience progresses into a brighter floral note closer to elderflower than rose, with sweet citrus, perhaps a mix of lemon curd and orange curd, bringing up the rear before a soothing layer of bitterness brings everything full circle.

I loved this on its own and it’s great with soda. I look forward to continuing to experiment with it in the weeks to come. If I can make it last, that is. I’ve already downed far more than I thought I would just sampling the stuff for this review. Bottom line: This goes toe to toe with Lucano N/A, and any amaro fan who needs a night off from the hard stuff should immediately track down a bottle or two.

Refrigeration is optional; the company says to treat it like a sherry or vermouth after opening.

A / $25

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