Review: Hurst Knoll Rye

Founded in 2021, Kentucky-based Rare Character has become something of a fan darling among non-distilling producers. In addition to their branded releases — which include both single barrels and batched products — the company has revived and relaunched a number of historic labels, including Fortuna, Brook Hill, and Old Cassidy.

The company’s latest offering is the brand new Hurst Knoll, a “carefully crafted union of Kentucky straight rye barrels” aged a minimum of seven years and bottled at 101 proof. (The whiskey comes from an undisclosed Kentucky distiller or distillers.) The blend was overseen by co-founder Pablo Moix, who prior to Rare Character accumulated several decades of experience in cocktails and hospitality.

In contrast to many of the company’s more premium, limited bottlings, Hurst Knoll is marketed as an always-on “go-to cocktail rye” with “bold spice, depth, and balance.” At $59.99, it’s not exactly the cheapest such rye on the market, though the proof point, age, and brand pedigree could drive up value in various ways.

Let’s see how it tastes.

Hurst Knoll Rye Review

As advertised, spice leads on the nose, in this case closer to allspice and clove than cinnamon. It’s the sort of spice one can imagine standing out among various sweeteners and liqueurs, allowing rye scents to punch through in a cocktail. Toasted pine nuts and freshly baked rye bread are up next, both of which contribute to a significant amount of grain-forward aromas before we get to any signs of oak. Tiny hints of dried mint, red berries, and white chocolate also develop after a few sniffs. Oak bookends the nose, tempering the grain just enough to add a little character from age. (I certainly wouldn’t have minded more in that realm.)

The first few sips lean toward sweet and caramel, and wood influence — specifically some lightly drying tannins and oak sugars — is perceptible much earlier compared to the nose. Lightly drying spice builds after a few tastes, specifically nutmeg and cinnamon that come well-integrated with seasoned wood. Green apple lends a little tart fruit on the midpalate and beyond, a pleasant surprise that adds some needed depth. Otherwise, both the back palate and finish feature some residual sweetness, vestiges of oak, and not a whole lot else. It’s not off putting when tasted neat, but Hurst Knoll lacks some final “oomph” one hopes for on a seven year sipping whiskey.

Of course, assessing Hurst Knoll neat and in a Glencairn isn’t exactly a fair shake. This was meant to be mixed, an intention Rare Character couldn’t have been clearer on. And to give Hurst Knoll its due, the rye excels across classic cocktails. I’m no world class mixologist, but it stood up well in my homespun Old Fashioned and Manhattan, carrying solid spice in the main sip before touches of oak outlasted sweetness on the finish. Not exactly a unique feat in today’s market, but certainly a welcome tool in a bartender’s arsenal. The rating below reflects a neat sample, but it fares much better when mixed.

101 proof.

B / $60

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