Review: World Whiskey Society Bourbons – Doc Holliday Cigar Blend, Modern Bottle, and Mizunara Shochu Finished
World Whiskey Society (WWS) has only been around since 2020, but it’s become a veritable juggernaut in the non-distilling producer space, cranking out so many new whiskeys each quarter that it’s difficult to keep up with it all. Today we check out a trio of new releases, including one from its Doc Holliday Collection and one which stands as perhaps the most unusual bourbon we’ve tasted to date.
World Whiskey Society Doc Holliday Bourbon Cigar Blend 16 Years Old Review
This whiskey — another Chip Tate collaboration — is a mystery 16 year old bourbon from Kentucky with three cask finishes — Tokaji, Armagnac, and white Port — neither of which feels like a shy influence, but each of which feels perfect for a cigar pairing. It is not a shy whiskey. The nose alone is almost overwhelming, an aggressive exploration of stewed fruit, tobacco, dark chocolate, and darker caramel. Intricate notes of scorched honey, clearer raisin (then prune) notes, and gingerbread are all impressively dominant and in-your-face — all par for the course for a Tate production, honestly.
On the palate the whiskey makes no real detours, coming across with such a holiday vibe that I was inspired to look up recipes for making my own plum pudding before aborting that idea almost immediately. Dried and stewed fruits meld with maple syrup, Madeira wine, and a late-game floral character that I presume is driven by the white Port influence in the bottle. It’s difficult to dodge the heavy floral character that comes at you as the finish builds — and why would you? This is a whiskey that demands your attention and makes no apologies for taking it. It’s built 100% for holiday enjoyment, and 0% like something that Doc Holliday would likely have consumed.
124.2 proof. A- / $449
World Whiskey Society Straight Kentucky Bourbon Modern Bottle 9 Years Old Review
Yep, “Modern Bottle” is part of the product name, and if you dig a pic of the bottle (at right) you might get an inkling as to why. It’s Kentucky-born but that’s about all we know; there’s no disclosed finishing with this one, making it (bottle aside) a very straightforward expression for the bottler.
To be sure, no real surprises await the drinker with this bourbon, which noses with moderate, lightly charred wood and a pleasant blend of caramel, vanilla, and baking spice. Extended airtime sees the whiskey become a bit more brooding and dense, with dark chocolate notes taking a stronger hold.
The palate is pleasant, initially featuring brown butter and almonds, more vanilla caramel, and a reprise of dark chocolate. Lightly minty as the midpalate builds, the whiskey eventually finds room for notes of honeyed apples, banana cream, and a final drizzle of caramel sauce across the top of it. It’s a capable and solid sipper, but not something I’d likely suggest paying $159 for — unless you need the spent bottle for your potions, of course.
108 proof. B+ / $159
World Whiskey Society Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished In Japanese Mizunara Shochu Barrels Review
Curiously, this NAS bourbon — dubbed the Samurai Edition and limited to 2000 bottles — is finished in mizunara shochu barrels, not mizunara whiskey barrels. That’s a weird (and possibly unique) combination, so that’s at least something to kick off with. The origin of this whiskey is stated: It’s Bardstown Bourbon Co. stock, made from a mash of 75% corn, 13% rye, and 12% barley, though no age is noted. 2000 bottles produced.
Very exotic on the nose, there’s an immediate punch here of wet grass, almost moss-like, evoking aromas of muddy turned earth, mushrooms, green beans, and some jasmine. Undulating and savory, the mossy character is tough to get away from, evoking deep-seated memories of a Florida swamp tour from years gone by. None of this, to my shock, is off-putting, mind you, though it is extremely unusual and earthy, requiring some time adapting to its profile.
The palate starts off right in line with the above, with that earthy green bean character building to show off some restrained floral notes that recall lilac and more jasmine, then some much-needed sweetness. Light notes of golden syrup give the palate a bit of a lift in the way that a holiday meal sees sweet potatoes dosed with maple syrup, turning a straightforwardly savory dish into something with a foot in two worlds.
Does it work? Kind of. It’s certainly not a transformative experience, but it is weird enough that I found it easy enough to finish a glass and then some, picking it apart with a confused look on my face and wondering if, in the end, any of this was a good idea. It ultimately reminded me vaguely of Glenmorangie’s “A Tale of the Forest,” only far less horrible.
108 proof. B / $124 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
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