Review: Tequila Centinela Cristalino and Tres Anos

Tequila Centinela may be new to us at Drinkhacker, but according to their bio, the family-owned distillery has over a century of experience with tequila production. Founded in 1904, it was the first tequila distillery established in Arandas, the home of Highland tequila in Jalisco.

As the self-described “Guardians of True Tequila,” Centinela makes their tequilas without additives from estate-grown agave roasted in traditional masonry ovens. Their lineup includes familiar Blanco, Reposado, and Anejo expressions along with a pair of premium, extra-aged offerings reportedly drawn from one of the largest tequila aging cellars in Mexico. We’ll get to the standard fare in due time, but first, let’s check out the top tier offerings.

Both expressions are 80 proof. NOM 1140.

Tequila Centinela Cristalino Review

Aged for 18 months in American oak before being stripped of its color via charcoal filtration. The aroma is decidedly barrel driven with heavy, buttery top notes of butterscotch and warm caramel that take on an unusual cheddar cheese quality as it opens. The agave is slow to show itself but eventually emerges with notes of cooked bell pepper and damp soil. Those earthy and vegetal elements, however, never quite find balance with the richer vanilla and caramelized sugar notes.

The palate is more even-handed with an entry that’s surprisingly more earthy and dry than the nose would suggest. Early notes of cooked agave, lime peel, and lavender are bright and energetic before giving way to a midpalate of butterscotch candies, coconut milk, mild black pepper, and soft baking spice. The sweetness is restrained, allowing the agave some presence, while a lacing of creamy vanilla adds a welcome roundness to the mouthfeel and hints at the richness in the aroma. It’s all a bit too delicate in the end, wearing away into the finish with muddled notes of agave pulp and toffee that don’t quite deliver what the front of the palate promised. B+ / $90

Tequila Centinela Tres Anos Review

It’s unclear why this isn’t labeled an Extra Anejo since its three years of American oak aging meet the requirements. Despite spending twice the time in oak, the aroma is far less barrel-forward than the Cristalino with sweet notes of agave syrup, honeycomb, and fresh cut grass. Undertones of baking spice, caramel sauce, and cocoa add depth and hint at those years in the cask, but as it opens more those darker aromas are replaced with brighter honeysuckle and green melon.

The palate is light, especially for an Extra Anejo expression, but still impressively balanced. Notes of cooked, gently sweet agave are sustained across the sip, but cinnamon, clove, and vanilla bean are a little bigger and more expressive, delivering the wood-driven character of an extra-aged tequila without very much of the caramel or dark brown sugar qualities that can sometimes be overbearing. A little black pepper on the midpalate complements an easy warmth that simmers into a medium-length finish of agave, butter mints, and cream soda. A- / $135

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