Tasting Sagrantino Wines, Fall 2025 Releases
Last autumn, we reviewed a modest cohort of Sagrantino, a red so bold and tannic it feels less like wine and more like a conquest at the end of a long journey. Hailing almost exclusively from Umbria, it is not the sort of bottle you casually slide into a dinner party menu unless you’ve advised the guests to arrive several hours after the start time on the invitation or, better yet, wait until they’ve gone home, the dishes are dry, and the house is still. At that point, the only person left awake enough to wrestle with it is you. Which, depending on how the dinner party went, could be an ideal arrangement.
These wines are notorious for needing air, time, and patience, all commodities few people have in abundance. Most, if not all, of the wines we tried below could stand another two years of aging without breaking a sweat. Under the correct circumstances (a lengthy decant, a hearty meal, and perhaps company comfortable with beefed up astringency), they can be rewarding now. Sagrantino is not an easygoing Merlot or Cabernet, and it does not pretend to be. Its appeal lies in the challenge, and the payoff can be substantial.
2019 Tenute Lunelli Carapace Montefalco Sagrantino – After a considerable amount of time decanting, notes of black licorice, lavender and espresso bean evolve from one aromatic layer to the next. However, the palate stays in safe waters, with black raspberry and cherry dominating on a plush and lengthy finish. It’s a nice representation of Sagrantino’s true potential, but each sip is accompanied by a nagging, instinctive feeling that in several years this will be a proper showstopper. A- / $45
2019 Tabarrini Colle Grimaldesco Montefalco Sagrantino – Again, I cannot stress enough the critical role aeration plays in sorting out these wines. Pouring straight from the bottle to the decanter finds this a bit chaotic. However, after an hour or so, aromas of herbs and red berries unfold, along with a beautiful note of cedar, and the elegance emerges. The palate gives way to a surge of ripe blackberry, nutmeg, and minerality muscling its way through to a finish meeting with dark violet. Last year, Tabarrini’s website paired this bottling with Fight Club or the Pixies’ “Where Is My Mind.” That suggestion hasn’t been updated for this vintage, but the spirit remains, and a spin of Sonic Youth’s Sister or a screening of Bad Lieutenant would do the trick just as well. A- / $55
2019 Romanelli Terra Cupa Montefalco Sagrantino – Wild blackberries and red plums form the opening impression, soon joined by dried lavender and thyme. The nose is inviting but also a clear reminder that this is still Sagrantino, and that it needs a bit of time to deliver the goods. On the palate, the tannins are firm but stop short of overwhelming, with a punchy raspberry note cutting through, aided by zippy acidity. The balance is promising, though the wine feels young. A few years stored away, and its brutish power should deliver something with more poise. B+ / $50
2021 Agricola Mevante Montefalco Sagrantino – Surprisingly approachable, this opens with aromas of red cherry and plums that are quite bright, but which are supported and tempered over time by notes of leather and a faint touch of balsamic. The cherry core is quite juicy, framed by fine-grained tannins and refreshing acidity, helping to keep the fruit lively without overcomplicating the experience. Unlike its peers, it is accessible now, with no need for lengthy aeration or elaborate pre-game maintenance. Just a corkscrew and a hearty meal for a companion. B / $35
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