Tasting Report: Malbecs for Fall 2025
Like rent, Xanax, and everything else in the universe, Malbec’s prices seem incapable of going anywhere but up. Bottles that once lived pleasantly in the Illinois or Kentucky Avenue price ranges now flirt with dangerously close to North Carolina or Pacific Avenue, while the prestige labels charge fees worthy of Park Place or Boardwalk. However, the shelves keep filling. My local shop, while hardly a serious scientific sample, has nearly doubled its Malbec real estate in the past year, with newcomers popping up monthly. Malbec’s popularity doesn’t appear to be fading.
Rising prices may sting, but they’ve also nudged the varietal into new territory: rewarding ambitious producers and elevating quality across the board, especially with the introduction of domestic offerings. It’s not just France and Argentina dominating the conversation these days. The grape still delivers at approachable prices, though the hunt takes more care than it once did.
We recently tried a nice cohort of Malbecs, from everyday pours to cellar-worthy bottles, in anticipation of spending some time around the fire pit this autumn. As we like to say around here: thoughts follow.
2021 Catena Zapata Argentino Malbec – One of the higher-end offerings from the Catena Zapata line pours with aromas of strawberry and blackberry at first, but a generous amount of mint cuts through after a few swirls and a bit of rest in the glass, setting the stage for a lively palate. Strawberry and mulberry flavors lead the way, but they are lifted by the mint and a subtle touch of eucalyptus as it evolves, adding a delightful vibrancy and complexity. It’s juicy and energetic but never gets bogged down in heaviness. Ready to go now, but it’s also appropriate to cellar a few years prior to enjoying. A- / $130
2019 Viña Tabalí Roca Madre Limari Valley Malbec – Notes of blackberry and plum are paired with thyme and graphite throughout. The sweet fruit balances the dense tannins, with mild black peppercorn peeking through as it evolves. Well-structured and layered without being heavy, it’s quite impressive and quite possibly the best Malbec to emerge from Chile this year. Most certainly good to go now, but it will undoubtedly shine with a few years’ nap in the cellar. A- / $74
2022 Château Vincens Origine Cahors Malbec – Blackberry and black currant lead the way throughout, with mild oak and baking spices tagging along on the finish. Firm tannins frame this nicely, allowing the blackberry to shine as it evolves in the glass. Giving this a year or two in the cellar isn’t the worst idea. However, if you can’t wait that long, provide a proper decanting before enjoying. B+ / $28
2023 Open Range Wines Malbec – Arizona and Texas have been putting out some interesting Malbecs over the last few years, and now it’s Colorado’s turn. Consisting of 89% Malbec and 11% Cabernet Franc, the nose offers up a lively mix of tart cranberry and cherry lifted by savory aromas of sage and oak. On the palate, a rather aggressive note of raspberry leads the way before making room for a touch of allspice, while grippy tannins frame the finish. It’s rare to find a domestic Malbec that does not command mid-to-high prices but also delivers quality. B+ / $23
2022 La Posta Paulucci Malbec – La Posta’s premise is simple: a small-scale producer from Argentina partners with Catena Zapata for beautiful packaging and wider distribution at a reasonable price point. Cherry and raspberry push forth on the nose, soon joined by green pepper and oak stretching their legs in the glass. The palate tips heavily toward oak at first, eventually relaxing enough to make room for more cherry, vanilla, and caramel on the finish. It’s lighter, almost reminiscent of French Malbec. It also works at its best when your Outlook calendar and inbox are clear and the long evening is free. B+ / $20
2022 Trivento Reserve Malbec – Raspberry and plum lead the nose, soon joined by a whisper of vanilla for balance. Strawberry and baking spice carry across the palate, finishing with a faint cigar box note. Not a showstopper, but steady. An easy dinner party bottle that never overpromises and rarely disappoints. B / $12
2024 Domaine Bousquet Organic Malbec – Like many Domaine Bousquet offerings before it, the aromas of dark fruit, fig, and a touch of baking spice invite approachability before the dark fruit flavors shift the balance in its favor. Light tannins and fresh acidity keep the wine lively, making it a natural fit for a big dinner straight off the grill. Notes of cedar, chocolate, and faint violets thread through the finish, adding depth without weighing it down. B / $15
2022 Bodega Argento Estate Collection – Violets and a strand of licorice rope lead the nose, with a meaty undertone keeping things from getting too pretty. A classic palate of darker fruit runs throughout, with gentle acidity carrying through to a surprisingly short finish. Grainy tannins provide enough to serve as a reminder that this wine isn’t all flowers and candy, but not so heavy-handed that it overshadows some of the wine’s nuances. B / $20
2023 Kirkland Signature Argentina Malbec – I have friends who trot out Kirkland wines for special occasions with immense pride, as though Costco had suddenly become the new Burgundy. I still don’t know why, and I can’t bring myself to ask. And so I nod and sip politely. There are moments when Costco’s private line delivers, and this one does OK at best. The nose offers notes of sweet spice and berries, undefined enough to keep you guessing, or maybe just indifferent. On the palate, plum, violet, and a flicker of cinnamon try in earnest to make this not resemble church juice, but the whole thing feels woefully understaffed. It’s priced to move, thin, simple and drinkable. But don’t confuse that with memorable. C+ / $7
2023 Little Mad Bird Mendoza Malbec – This Mendoza Malbec behaves well enough on the nose: a touch of red berries, a little dark chocolate, so it would be easy to assume this fits the classic Argentinian Malbec profile. Then the sip hits, and suddenly there’s a question of who shoveled soil into the barrel. The balance never arrives, and this never really gets things together, with a monotone cherry note concluding things rather abruptly. Quite hoping I had the misfortune of grabbing an errant bottle. C- / $13
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