Review: New Riff High Note Collection – First Decade Bourbon and First Decade Rye
Ten years is a long time to do anything. Aging whiskey? Fuggedaboudit.
New Riff Distilling got its start in 2014 and went right to work putting its whiskey to sleep in Kentucky rickhouses. Now, two of those whiskeys have just crossed the 10 year old threshold, and New Riff has them available as limited editions — for now, exclusively through the New Riff Whiskey Club and in its on-site Aquifer Tasting Room (which you must visit if you’re in the area in northern Kentucky).
We were fortunate to be able to try them both at the distillery and offsite in the Drinkhacker home office. (Coincidentally, the bourbon and rye came out of the barrel at the exact same proof; these are both bottled at cask strength.)
Should they find their way around you, or vice versa, thoughts follow.
New Riff High Note Collection – First Decade Bourbon Review
Made from the standard Blue Riff bourbon mashbill of 65% corn, 30% rye, and 5% malted barley.
Well-tempered and firing on all cylinders, the nose is big with barrel char and layers of mint and chocolate, creating a nice mix between smoldering, savory notes and more effusive dessert-like qualities. Wisps of cigar smoke temper any thoughts that the whiskey will break out into sweet or fruit-heavy territory, with lingering notes of allspice and cloves hanging on.
The palate does in fact break through some of those aromatic walls, but time in glass is your friend here. (As well, I’d insist on some water, given the 60%+ abv.) Chocolate and mint remain dominant, but they’re chased by Maraska cherry notes, which adds some sweetness. The whiskey takes on a brown butter and pie crust note from there, making its way to finishing notes of graham crackers and vanilla wafer cookies. Very late a hint of lemon peel comes into view. Throughout it all, however, that ample, charry punchiness persists. There’s just no getting around the maturity of the whiskey, for better or for worse. As it stands, I feel like this release is standing on the precipice of turning the corner into over-aged territory. So drink up! 120.5 proof. A- / $90
New Riff High Note Collection – First Decade Rye Review
Made with 95% rye and 5% malted rye, the same mashbill used for New Riff’s Bottled-in-Bond and Single Barrel ryes.
The rye grain pops from the moment you pop the cork. It’s bold and brassy, as it should be. This is 100% rye grain, after all. Secondary aromas run to rosemary and dried orange peel — then a strong whiff of black tea.
Very punchy on the palate, the whiskey is biting and more than a little gritty, continuing the grain-forward theme of dried green herbs and crumbled tea leaf. It definitely doesn’t shake any expectations, enduringly herbal well into the finish, which feels impossibly long and very peppery. Both here and in Kentucky I found a little water to be helpful (it doesn’t need much, but it needs some), coaxing out some brown sugar sweetness which melds well with the tea elements in the mix. Touches of baked apples and a little yuzu percolate well into the conclusion, which is lasting and immersive, even after a proper tempering. Highly worthwhile, but it must be tempered. 120.5 proof. A- / $90
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