Review: 2022 Larkmead Solari

Larkmead is one of a select few California wineries requiring minimal introduction for U.S. wine aficionados. One of the most venerated labels to emerge from Napa in recent years, limited runs are often snapped up as soon as they’re announced and frequently receive top marks, including from our site. We enjoyed a few recent offerings earlier this spring, and today we are fortunate enough to enjoy a sneak peek at the 2022 vintage of their celebrated Solari offering.

Right from uncorking, this bottle has no qualms in declaring itself a giant. The aromatics are highly concentrated, led by intense cassis supported by layers of black tea, anise, and graphite. Eventually, dark chocolate tones rise to the surface, cutting through the heavy cassis and black tea. On the palate, the core flavors integrate with mild licorice, vanilla, and cocoa nibs, creating a surprising amount of depth even in its youthful state. While its current profile offers power over subtlety, decanting and extended aeration bring out more nuance for those opting to open it now.

This is a wine designed for those who have the patience for long-term investment, and the payoff in five to seven years will undoubtedly provide quite a memorable experience. For enthusiasts willing to wait, the reward should be an elegant Cabernet that retains full intensity while staying balanced. The edges will undoubtedly soften, and its existing structure will unfold a potential to age gracefully, offering more layers and integration.

However, those eager to experience it in its current form will find a bold, uncompromising presentation ready to go after a generous amount of time receiving some air. Whether enjoyed now under optimal conditions or reserved for an occasion not too far off in the distant future, it demonstrates a commitment and confidence in Larkmead’s ability to produce excellent wine from its vineyards. In either case, this vintage of Solari is an example of meticulous winemaking, capable of delivering a compelling experience across different stages of its life cycle.

In nearly fifteen years as a writer for this site, I have never before assigned a rating of A+. Much like this bottle, there is an appropriate time and place for everything.

A+ / $200

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