Georgian Wine Review: 2021 Dugladze Tibaani and 2018 Dugladze Kisi Qvevri

Georgian wine is a major source of national pride and identity, with its winemaking method added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List in 2013. My colleagues have reviewed wines from Georgia in recent years, and now I am fortunate enough to take a turn, courtesy of two wines from one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. Established in 1903, Dugladze is still a relatively new kid on the block but a fourth generation of the family is carrying on operations, fusing modern techniques with time-tested traditional wine-making methods.

2018 Dugladze Kisi Qvevri – This wine initially presents with big apricot aromas before being counterbalanced by white flowers and roasted almonds. On the palate, there are sweeter hints of pineapple, lemon and mango which fade on a rather dry finish that showcases a delightful note of nectarine. A- / $23

2021 Dugladze Tibaani – This is as distinctive a wine as I have had the opportunity to try in quite some time. At first, it runs parallel to qualities exhibited in a strong glass of sherry, only to pull itself back into spice and herbal elements towards the finish. The nose features plentiful golden raisin and walnut, but the palate fades into a mix of herbs, honey, and ripe pear. Drinking this slightly chilled and with time in the glass to develop is the best way to approach this wine, which would probably pair well with spicy, non-Western cuisine. B / $17

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