Review: Jeppson’s Malort Finished in Islay Scotch Barrels

Attempting to “review” Malört has always been something of a fool’s errand. Despite some die-hard adherents, most people consider the stuff to be a inside joke concocted by Chicagoans and which should never be consumed outside of a bar bet. Malört is having something of a renaissance these days, however, rising up the pop culture ranks as it fully embraces its nasty reputation. (At this year’s Tales of the Cocktail, shots are being served in ashtrays.)

The thing of it is — I kind of like Malört. It is not nearly as foul as people make it out to be, though the ultra-bitter grapefruit peel and ash quality is categorically an acquired taste (and I could tell tale of once how, after a single glass of the stuff, I sweated so badly in my sleep that I had to change the sheets). But if the OG isn’t enough for you, Jeppson’s Malört has a new limited edition version hitting the market which is finished in ex-Laphroaig quarter casks, infusing the liqueur “with the peaty depth and coastal smoke of Islay whisky.”

Only 500 bottles are being released, and we got one. 100% of the profits are going to Thin Green Line Foundation, “a global non-profit organization dedicated to protecting wildlife by supporting rangers on the frontline of wildlife and habitat conservation.” Note that the front label does not indicate it is part of a special edition. You’ll have to read the fine print on the back to know what you’ve got your hands on.

Ready to give it a whirl?

Jeppson’s Malort Finished in Islay Scotch Barrels Review

I would love to say that the combination of bitter Malort and peaty Scotch is magical, but the truth is that if there’s anything that can overpower the aroma and flavor of peat, it’s Malort. The nose isn’t smoky at all, and rather exudes that grapefruit peel and dusky spice notes with which I intimately associate with the spirit. Ashy, but well-moderated, with a lightly beefy note beneath.

On the palate, a gripping, Fernet-like bitterness takes hold, and here the smoke from the Laphroaig casks begins to make its presence known. It is far from overwhelming, though, a natural companion to the standard ashiness the unfinished liqueur offers and really just an echo that lingers after you set the glass down for a spell. The finish is just as vegetal and rustic as ever, showcasing that bitter wormwood note alongside plenty of turned earth, though the barest hints of sweetness manage to peek through the undergrowth.

I don’t know that this Islay-finished expression changes the game much — if at all — but I’m always down for spirits producers who are all in on a good cause. And I like Malort. So there.

70 proof.

A- / $100

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