Review: Granbazan Albarino – 2024 Etiqueta Verde and 2021 Limousin

Rias Baixas-based Granbazan doesn’t just make albarino, it makes eight different versions of them, each in a particular style. Today we look at a pair of wines, including one with a little age on it.

2024 Granbazan Albarino Etiqueta Verde – “Grown within sight of the Atlantic Ocean,” the grapes in this wine spend three months resting on the lees. The fruit here is extremely expressive, with a boldly tropical quality that is typical of Granbazan. The pineapple-heavy attack slow fades into something more citrus-driven, particularly lime, which comes to dominate the finish, alongside some gentle, white florals. The grassiness common in some of Granbazan’s other albarino offerings is absent here, but the good news is the wine doesn’t really need it, as the one-two punch of pineapple and lime are plenty to keep things intriguing to the end. A- / $23

2021 Granbazan Albarino Limousin – Aged in oak a minimum of 4 months after fermentation — unusual for albarino — plus 18 months in stainless steel. The oak makes a big difference here, giving the wine a certain doughiness that counterbalances the saline and fruit in the mix. While tropical pineapple notes are initially heavy, the wine veers toward coconut as the finish builds, leaning into light notes of oak, sesame seed, and lime. It’s less overtly fruit-driven than Etiqueta Verde, but not every meal demands an overload of acidity. Here the wine finds some balance that helps it stand up to heartier fare, meandering toward soothing notes of cooked guava on the fade-out. A- / $38

The post Review: Granbazan Albarino – 2024 Etiqueta Verde and 2021 Limousin appeared first on Drinkhacker: The Insider’s Guide to Good Drinking.