Review: 2018 Poggio Lontano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

There is an easy, alluring temptation to be swept up in the magical promise of a Brunello di Montalcino at $22. Even if found (exclusively) at Trader Joe’s under a nom de plume such as Poggio Lotano (roughly translated: “distant knolls”), it just seems too good to be true: a Brunello existing at such a price point allowing casual wine drinkers unfamiliar with its glorious charms a peek into what a good glass of Brunello can deliver, especially when paired with the right meal. But is it an accurate ambassador? Let us find out.

2018 Poggio Lontano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Review

Upon pouring, there’s an immediate and unmistakable presentation of the classic Brunello signatures of blackberry and cherry on the nose, with violets and a trace of menthol lending some complexity to what could otherwise be a jammy, one-note situation. The palate deepens with earthy notes of mushroom and leather, complemented by touches of cedar and cinnamon. As it evolves in the glass, muted notes of dark chocolate and tobacco arrive on the finish. It can be a wobbly, unsettled glass at first, so allow for some time and patience as it finds its balance.

To their credit, Trader Joe’s has delivered a prudent, sensible selection for Brunello fans to have on hand when opening a higher-end bottle feels like an unnecessary extravagance. The price point is ideal, providing an accessible launching pad for those wishing to explore Brunello in greater depth without having to break the bank.

B+ / $22

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